Sipping a glass of 'cay' as you cross the Bosporus to Asia is just one of the attractions of Istanbul, writes Angela Long
IT'S CHALLENGING being in Istanbul if you are of a certain age, for it's hard to stop singing in your head "Istanbul was Constantinople, now it's Istanbul, not Constantinople . . . Nobody's business but the Turks'!"
The conclusion drawn by The Four Lads in their 1950s hit is no longer true, as the question of Turkey is everybody's business, at least in the EU, where the question of whether to admit this fascinating country of 71 million people can be bitterly debated.
Istanbul is the only city that straddles two continents. Of Turkey's nine World Heritage sites, eight are in the Asian landmass, to the east; the ninth is in the European part, in the "old" section of the city.
On a short break to Istanbul, you can test out the Asian part by sailing across the Bosporus, the strait that bisects the city. There are any number of tourist craft, but for the real experience jump on one of the regular water buses, like we did, and mix with the locals. The journey takes about 15 minutes - enough time to take tea, or cay, sold by hawkers who walk briskly through the boat, holding trays with dozens of small tulip-shaped glasses of it. All around, people are chatting, sipping and reading newspapers. About 10 per cent of the women we saw were veiled. But everyone rubs along together.
When you get to the Asian side, don't expect Ali Baba, strange spices and water buffalo. In fact it is just a grey concrete quayside. But you can get your shoes shined expertly for the equivalent of a couple of euro - tidy feet being another Turkish obsession.
Istanbul was not just Constantinople; before that it was Byzantium. It was the capital of the Ottoman empire, one of the world's greatest cities. Today it has about 11 million people. Its most famous sight is the Blue Mosque, more properly called the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. It is unmistakable for its waterside location, blue hue and six minarets (the normal number is four).
One salutary experience lay in coming upon the dense garment district, on our way to the spice bazaar. Here, in the Eminomu area, dozens of narrow streets snake up and down, packed with little shops selling pyjamas and underwear. Eleven million people create quite a demand for bras and briefs.
The bazaar itself is a brightly lit cavern of dozens of stalls. The Turkish delight was far better than anything you would taste anywhere else in the world, but not all of it was as fresh as a daisy.
In another part of town we came across the music quarter. After promenading down Istiklal, the Grafton Street of the city, you continue into Galip Dede Caddesi. This winding cobbled street is lined with shop after shop selling stringed instruments, mostly guitars.
The Turks love cats, which are everywhere in the old city and can make an appearance anywhere in the capital.
And the call to prayer is a noisy affair. Our hotel was wonderfully located but, perhaps, a little too close to the Blue Mosque for comfort.
What came across to this visitor was a courtesy in people, like a memory of how life used to be.
Go there
Turkish Airlines (www.thy. com) flies to Istanbul from Dublin five times a week. Average return fares start at €200.
Where to stay, where to eat and where to go if you're in the city for a weekend
5 places to stay
Istanbul Apex Hotel. Amiral Tafdil Sokak 24, Sultanahmet, Istanbul, 00-90-212-4580190, www.istanbulapexhotel.com. This hotel is basic but the staff are excellent and it's clean and comfortable, with a terrace that must be charming in summer. Their driver met us at the airport. About €75 a night for a double.
Hotel Romantic. Amiral Tafdil Sokak 29, Sultanahmet, 00-90-212-6389635, www.romantichotelistanbul.com. This is great if you are in that kind of mood - mauves, rose pinks, quilting and rococo style. White painted and gold-tipped, compact, prices a little above those of Apex.
Naz Wooden House Inn. Akbiyik Degirmeni Sokak 7, Sultanahmet, 00-90-212-5167130/1, www.nazwoodenhouseinn.com. A typical building in the old city's traditional residential section. Dark weatherboard outside, comfortable inside. Simple and inexpensive; from about €40 per person.
W Istanbul. Suleyman Seba Caddesi 22, Akaretler, Besiktas, 00-90-212-3812121, www.starwoodhotels.com. This modern but not quite brutalist place, in a different part of town, is much smarter than the little places in Sultanahmet, with prices to match. About €400 for a double.
Zurich Hotel. Vidinli Tevfik Pasa Caddesi, Harikzadeler Sokak 37, 00-90-212-5122350, www.hotelzurichistanbul.com. This central hotel has a good reputation. About €150 for a double.
5 places to eat
Feriye Lokantasi. Ciragan Caddesi 40, Ortaköy, 00-90-212-2272545, www.feriye.com/english/index.asp. Dozens of Istanbul restaurants are by the Bosporus, and diners can sit out in the sunshine or on mild evenings. This is one of the more upmarket ones, specialising in charcoal-grilled meats and other hearty dishes.
Galatelia. Galata Köprüsü Alti 11, Eminönü. 00-90-212-2928100, galatelia.com/AnaSayfa.htm. The Galata bridge over the Golden Horn waterway has half a dozen fish restaurants. We went to this one, where the food was quite good. Beware how the bill mounts up when you are ordering catch of the day by weight.
Nature and Peace. Istiklal Caddesi 21, Beyoglu (just north of the Galata area), 00-90-212-2528609. For vegetarians, this aims to spread calm and to promote good digestion. Fresh soups, lentil köfte and falafel are all on the menu.
Mado. Ankara Caddesi, www.mado.com.tr. This chain of dessert restaurants sells dondurma, the famous Turkish ice cream made with a flour that comes from orchids and can be stretched into a rope. Mado has more than 30 flavours - and great crepes and waffles as well.
Hala, Istiklal Caddesi 211, Beyoglu, 00-90-212-2927004. This chain specialises in stuffed pancakes and manti, or Turkish ravioli. Traditionally dressed women sit in the window, to show their deftness with the batter.
5 places to visit
Hagia Sophia. Aya Sofya Square, Sultanahmet, 00-90-212-5221750. This former mosque started life as a church in the sixth century, on the site of an even older place of worship. Not so prepossessing from the exterior, it will hit you with its wow factor inside. It's vast, with interlocking domes and fabulous mosaics.
Topkapi Palace. Babhumayan Caddesi, Seraglio Peninsula, 00-90-212-5120480. The traditional home of the sultans, with beautiful architecture, lovely gardens, stunning jewels and a fascinating display about the hajj. Our guidebook, curses on it, told us Topkapi was open until 7pm, but it started to close at 4.30pm, so we missed the famous harem. Don't make the same mistake.
Istanbul Modern. Melcis-I Mebusan Caddesi, Liman Isletmeleri, 00-90-212-3347300, www.istanbulmodern.org. This fabulous place, overlooking the Bosporus, which used to be a customs house and is now a museum of modern art, has a number of lively temporary shows as well as its standing collection. A fascinating display of Russian pictorialism, silver gelatin photographs taken between 1900 and 1930, was one of the eclectic offerings when we were there.
Basilica Cistern. Yerebatan Caddesi 13, 00-90-212-5221259, www.yerebatan.com. A haunting and magical experience under the streets of the old city. Built by the Romans, this vast underground water store has more than 300 beautiful pillars. Look for the crazy Medusa heads.
Galata Tower. Buyuk Hendek Sokak, 00-90-212-2938180, www.galatatower.net. A good viewing point for Istanbul panoramas. The cone-topped tower, 62 metres tall, has had several purposes, including watchtower and fire-control station. It's been a full-time tourist magnet for 40 years, and at night you can watch bellydancing in the tower-top restaurant and club.
Hot spot
Onnumara. Beanbags are an alluring sight, especially for those with faint happy memories of hippiedom. This bar on the Galata Kursumu bridge, across the Golden Horn, has the quadruple attractions of large beanbags, river views, cocktails and hookahs (water pipes). It might not have the best Margarita ever, but don't expect cocktail excellence in a Muslim country.
Shopping
"Are you ready to spend your money?" That was one of the deliciously direct questions being put to passers-by at the Grand Bazaar (Nuri Osmaniye and Beyazid mosques and Mahmutpasa Bazaar, www.grandbazaarturkey.com). The art of the deal is an elaborate thing here, and the Turkish traders are not shy.
Read all about it
Try anything by Orhan Parmuk, Turkey's Nobel laureate. He has suffered in his homeland for his liberal views. Not easy reads. A friend recommends Mehmet: My Hawk, by Yasar Kemal, Turkey's most famous literary export before Parmuk. It is from the mid 1950s, but it is charming and timeless.
Be prepared
You still need a visa to get into Turkey. You pay on arrival - about €15 per head - just before passport control.