Paul Cullenheads to Carlingford for a spectacular hike up Co Louth's highest mountain
DUBLIN-BASED walkers looking for new routes often delve farther and farther south in Wicklow when they might be better advised to look north. New stretches of motorway have put the Cooley peninsula within 90 minutes' drive of the capital, and much less if you live on the right side of the Liffey. Those who make the trip are liable to be rewarded with splendid new walks, breathtaking views across the Irish Sea and fine dining afterwards in Carlingford's select restaurants and gastropubs. Or, as happened to me on a recent windy afternoon, you could find yourself wandering in the mist, hardly able to see in front of you and liable to be blown over by the latest gust of wind. You can't win them all.
Slieve Foye, the highest mountain in Co Louth, shelters Carlingford from the worst of the weather, and its ruggedness looms large over the village. Climbing its 588m peak from a starting point at sea level is a tall enough order, but it is within the compass of most walkers. There's a track most of the way to the top, and although the descent can pose some navigational difficulties, a compass is likely to be needed only in emergencies.
Our route starts in the car park in Carlingford by the tourist office, where maps and other guides can be purchased. There's much to see in a small area in the medieval village, but, in keeping with previous practice, we'll save the sightseeing for after the walk.
Go through the centre, following the signs for the Táin Trail, which leads south of the village. Just after the church take a right up a minor road, which twists left and right past new houses before rising into open hillside. The track that follows on from the road is indicated by familiar walking posts; it continues to snake upwards as views of village, sea and mountain open up.
The first time I walked here was a few days before the outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease nearby in 2001. On that occasion the mountainside was populated by thousands of sheep, or so it seemed, although there was no inkling of the catastrophe that was to come.
Now their numbers are greatly diminished, and I count only three small flocks on the hill, plus a farmer herding his retinue with the help of two sheepdogs and an intricate form of whistling. As for brown bulls, the mythical Táin Bó of Cooley, there isn't a sign.
At the top of the track at Golyin Pass, we leave the waymarked Táin trail, turning right towards our target. The shoulder offers fine views east and west, over land and sea, to distract us as the track steepens. The full force of the wind hits me as I pass between two crags beneath the summit, and I am temporarily blown off my feet.
There's a gale blowing from here up to the top and beyond, and the clouds are down for the day, but the satisfaction on reaching the trigonometrical station is undiminished.
From here we walk northwest along the undulating summit ridge, where bands of rock can sometimes make the path hard to find. It is possible to divert north, down towards the coast, but we follow the ridge to the last major crag, Eagle's Rock, before heading carefully down the grassy slopes. On my descent I come across the wreckage of a light aircraft that must have crashed into the mountainside some years back.
Only now do we turn northeast and drop down to Slieve Foye Forest, where a track rejoins the Táin Trail and descends into Carlingford.
Carlingford, Co Louth
Start and finishCarlingford.
Distance10km.
TimeFour or five hours.
High pointsSpectacular views of Carlingford Lough; apres-walk in the village.
SuitabilityUnsuitable for inexperienced walkers. Stout boots recommended. Leave your dog at home. Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery 36.
RefreshmentSeafood in the Oystercatcher Bistro or the Kingfisher restaurant; a drink and food in PJ's bar and restaurant.
AccommodationCarlingford Adventure Centre for the frugal walker or the 18th-century Ghan House for elegance.