The once impoverished Aran archipelago has become a tourist honeypot, writes John G O'Dwyer
AT THIS MOMENT this seems like the most compelling endeavour in the world. I'm sitting on a sun-kissed ferry that is carving silver spraylets from an azure Atlantic swell. In the background a group of young people is discussing the English Premiership with effortless fluency in lyrical Gaeilge.
We are heading towards a once-impoverished archipelago, and I want to discover what now makes it a tourist honeypot rated by National Geographic as one of the world's top island destinations.
As Inis Mór's rather unspectacular north coast approaches I chance upon an islander, studying at London University, who is returning for vacation work in her family's restaurant on the island, in Kilronan. Won't she find things a tad isolated after the bright lights and crowds of the English capital?
On the contrary, she says, nowhere in the world is less lonely than Aran. "Island living creates a special sense of camaraderie, and these days the place is full of action."
Next morning I'm bound for Dún Aengus on a hired bike, and my student acquaintance is certainly right about one thing: there is no shortage of action. Aran's equivalent of the M50 teems with minibuses, bikes, jarveys, ancient tractors and walkers, all competing chaotically for limited space amid few road signs and apparently even fewer rules.
Initially I have horrific visions of being ditched by a bus or stonewalled by a jaunting car. Then I realise that, unlike the M50, island transport works, because everyone accepts the interdependence of communal living. People make eye contact, smile and signal others to move on. The rules of the road are mutually and instantly created as required.
Soon I have been inducted into community living and am waving and grinning with the best of them.
Dún Aengus is Aran's premier tourist attraction with good reason, but the downside is that around lunchtime each day it teems with visitors. The fort itself consists of a series of huge concentric defences of amazing drystone construction, but the real beauty of the place lies in its location.
From its 100m-high vantage point, Inis Mór's wind-blasted south coast is an exquisite meeting place of water, stone and sky. The mythical land of Hybrasil is reputed to be visible on occasions, but today we are treated only to the mutating colours of an approaching storm.
A hasty retreat is required to the tasteful visitor centre as it begins bucketing down. Sheltering in the craft shop, I am told by the accommodating sales assistant that in recent years the greatest happening for the area was the coming of Teilifís na Gaeilge, now TG4, as it "restored pride in the Irish language and made speaking it fashionable again". She then informs me of a fact I have already noted. "Young people are now coming to Aran just to rediscover the joy of speaking ár teanga féin."
Later, as I pedal damply towards Kilronan, a restful quietude descends on the island. Then I notice why. The day trippers have departed, and Inis Mór has reclaimed its timeless serenity.
For some reason I feel a strong impulse to cycle across the silken sands of Kilmurvey Strand. At the water's edge there's a chilling wind, and it's spitting rain, but I wouldn't swap this moment of solitary connection with Aran for the sunniest beach in Ibiza.
That evening abundant Gaeilge is again being spoken at Ostán Oileain Árainn, the island's first hotel, the brainchild of local businessman and renowned musician PJ O'Flaherty. Driven by a passion for Aran's culture and music, he opened for business in 2005, and tonight he is leading a traditional session.
Later he tells me that on busy weekends visitors to Inis Mór outnumber locals by more than three to one. He is proud of National Geographic's high rating - the Aran Islands were placed a commendable 11th in a study of 122 island destinations worldwide. This he ascribes to a strong awareness among islanders of the importance of maintaining an authentic island experience.
"Our economy would collapse without tourism, and so we discourage stag parties and suchlike, as they are not in our long-term interest. Instead we are seeking visitors genuinely attracted by heritage, culture, music and, indeed, the newly initiated Father Ted festival, which has been a great success."
But isn't the island becoming a victim of its own success? O'Flaherty believes not. "It can get a bit chaotic when the day trippers all arrive before noon, but there are still plenty of outstanding places to go where you won't meet a soul."
Kilronan has become Ireland's third-busiest passenger port; the recently approved harbour development will, O'Flaherty believes, put an end to the problems that now mar first impressions for incoming visitors.
Next morning it's sunshine all the way as, on the hotelier's advice, I pedal towards Dún Duchathair. This isolated promontory fort is surrounded on three sides by restless Atlantic swells. It is only slightly less dramatic than Dún Aengus, but it more than compensates with its sense of utter solitude. A timeless place of stone, it remains almost exactly as it was when it was built, three millennia ago.
Then it strikes me why these islands are rated so highly. Find a spot such as this, well away from the often crass commercialism of day-tripper tourism, and Inis Mór is still one of the best locations to escape the pressures of modern living.
Solitude, seclusion and a bit of craic
TO ENJOY Inis Mór fully you need to linger. You won't get a true impression as a day tripper. Instead, stay on the island for a couple of nights and get out beyond the tourist hub, which lies between Kilronan and Dún Aengus. Visit the largely unfrequented west of the island, where some of the most compelling scenes for the documentary film Man of Aran were made, or walk the secluded east coast for stunning views and solitude. At night you'll find the craic at a traditional-music session at OstáOileain Árainn or one of the pubs around Kilronan.
Where to stay
Aran Islands Hotel (Ostán Oileain Árainn). Tastefully decorated in a vernacular style, it overlooks the sea and enjoys a restful setting about a kilometre from Kilronan.
B&B €55 to €139. 099-61104, www.aranislandshotel.com
Kilmurvey House. Imposing country house beneath Dún Aengus. B&B €45 to €65. 099-61218, www.kilmurvey house.com
Man of Aran Cottage. Thatched B&B overlooking Kilmurvey Bay. Built as part of the set for the 1930s film Man of Aran. B&B from €37. 099-61301, www.manofaran cottage.com.
There are abundant other accommodation choices, including several hostels and a wide range of places to eat on Inis Mór. Details are available from the helpful tourist office, 099-61263.
Getting around
The best way to get around Inis Mór is by hiring a bicycle in Kilronan and meandering around to visit the prehistoric sites and monuments.
You can also hire a pony and trap for four.
Guided tours in a modern minibus can be had from Hernons Aran Tours, 099-61131.
Go there
Most visitors come to Inis Mór on the 45-minute crossing from Rossaveal Port, an hour's drive from Galway. Return €22.50. www.aranislandferries.com. There are also ferry connections from Doolin, Co Clare, that operate from March to October. www.doolinferries.com. Direct flights to Inis Mór are available from Connemara Regional Airport, Inverin,
Co Galway. www.aerarannislands.ie.