Go TurkeyWith historical sites and stunning natural wonders to complement its kilometres of beaches, the city of Kusadasi is a year-round resort, writes Fiona McCann
THERE ARE precious few cities left on this shrinking planet where you won't find an Irish bar, whether it's tucked into a recess off the main drag or proudly displayed alongside the cathedral. That said, few towns can boast a whole street of them, an enclave of Irishness that would put Dublin's Italian quarter or even New York's Chinatown in the ha'penny place. Welcome to Kusadasi's Barlar Sokagi, known as Bar Street, where Paddy's Irish Bar vies for custom with Temple Bar, Shamrock and Molly Malone's, not to mention several more under construction along this tiny strip of nocturnal delights, a small testimony to the city's obsession with all things Irish.
Because it's not just Bar Street that bears a distinctively Celtic stamp. This is a city where bars and cafes proudly boast tricolours where we're used to seeing Union Jacks or Stars and Stripes, and where locals are as likely to address you with a "dia dhuit" as they are with a "hello".
As far as branding goes, Kusadasi has gone for full-on Fáilte Ireland, a choice that appears to be paying huge dividends, given the number of Irish tourists who are making it their annual destination these days.
If, however, you're not the kind of traveller who is looking for a home away from home, there are still plenty of other reasons to choose this city on the Aegean as an introduction to Turkey. With a population of 50,000 that rises to 500,000 during its sweltering summer months, Kusadasi is a fully paid-up resort town, with packed beaches during high season, tourist menus in the restaurants and the aforementioned street full of Irish bars that promise the kind of evening entertainment that will have you staggering back to the hotel long after the sun has come up the next day.
If this sounds anathema to you, bear in mind that there are many sound reasons behind Kusadasi's growth into such an attraction for Irish and other international tourists. With more than 30km of beaches, this city has become a tourist magnet precisely because of a stunning landscape still visible behind the growing number of high-rise hotels. These beaches become even more appealing during its mild winter, when the hordes abandon the sandy shores and leave visitors to enjoy the turquoise sea vistas without sundry sunshades and tanning tourists getting in the way.
The town itself has its charms, particularly the winding streets of the old quarter, which retain an Ottoman aesthetic, as well as part of the old city wall, the south gate, that stands near an old caravanserai that has been tastefully converted into a hotel. Small shops now line these serpentine streets, selling souvenirs and knock-off clothing; a popular Wednesday market is another option for those looking for textiles, trinkets and general tat.
These alleys run towards the water, ending on a pretty paved promenade that leads to the marina. From here there's a splendid view of the Byzantine castle on Pigeon Island, now the city's most celebrated landmark.
Behind these postcard images there's also a thriving Turkish city, with roadside stands selling simit - a kind of circular bread covered in sesame seeds - and patisseries brimming with baklava and Turkish delight. Up the hill towards Ladies Beach, bright summer blooms burst from the gardens of the stucco houses that line the dusty streets, and with the call to prayer emanating from the city's mosques it's not too difficult to find a different Turkey behind the shamrocks and shillelaghs.
Yet Kusadasi's biggest selling point is the fact that it makes an excellent base for trips to some of the area's biggest attractions, with Dilek National Park, 30km away, featuring endless stretches of empty beaches with stunning views of the Greek island of Samos, sitting two kilometres out in the turquoise sea. Untouched forests, hidden coves and the possibility of walking for kilometres without bumping into another Irish tourist are what make this a worthwhile detour. Botanists will be weak at the knees in the midst of more than 800 species, subspecies and varieties of local flora.
Natural attractions aside, one of Kusadasi's biggest boasts is its proximity to one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the ancient Anatolian city of Ephesus, a 20km bus ride away. The city dates back to the time of Alexander the Great, who visited it in 334BC to see the city's Temple of Artemis, which was destroyed less than 100 years later by the Goths.
Rebuilt and destroyed several times over its thousands of years in existence, the city still displays much of its former glory, including the Hadrian Temple, the Celsus Library and a magnificent amphitheatre dating from its period under the Roman Republic.
This area, around the sleepy town of Selçuk, is also the home of the House of the Virgin Mary, a Christian and Muslim shrine in the mountains near Ephesus where Mary was believed to have lived in the latter years of her life. Sunday Mass is still celebrated here in the spectacular natural setting, and waters from its spring are said to have miraculous properties.
For many, though, the myriad day trips and excursions on offer from Kusadasi cannot compare with the seductive powers of a week in the sunshine by the hotel pool, quaffing cocktails and indulging in the occasional spa treatment or Turkish bath.
Venturing out to Ladies Beach, one of the city's prettiest and, as a result, most popular beaches, can be enough of an adventure, while the town's two water parks, Aqua Fantasy and Adaland, are an ample diversion from the beaten path to the hotel bar.
As a kind of Courtown in the sun, it's hard to beat, with plenty of activities on offer in the numerous resort hotels for those for whom the emphasis is on effortless rather than Ephesus.
• Fiona McCann was a guest of Sunway. See www.sunway.ie
• www.goturkey.com
What to do while you're in Turkey
Turkish bath
If cleanliness is next to godliness, then Turkey must be one of the holiest places on earth, thanks to the tradition of the Turkish bath, or hamam. You start off in the warm room, where you build up a steady sweat while perched on heated marble, then move on to the hot room, where, after a quick splash of cold water, you are invited to recline on a raised marble table for the full bathing experience. This involves serious exfoliation, a vigorous massage and lots of lathering and scrubbing. Kusadasi has several hamams, including the central Belediye Hamami, on Yildirim Caddesi, just beside Bar Street. Many hotels have their own hamams.
Pamukkale
One of the most breathtaking sights Turkey has to offer, the travertines at Pamukkale form picturesque white terraces along the 160m-high hillside overlooking this small town. Formed when hot springs brimming with calcium left their chalky content along the slopes, the pools that remain are worth dipping into, if only to emulate Cleopatra, who is believed to have bathed in the vicinity.
Shopping
Apart from carpets, this part of Turkey does a smart trade in leather and gold, with factories close to the city offering all sorts of bargains for those with space in their suitcases for some coats and carats. Shopping does come with a warning, however, as not every retailer has the customer's best interests at heart.