As the unique Winding Stair Bookshop and Cafe closes, Anna Carey reminds us that there are still a few inviting, independent establishments in business. Here are just a few
First Bewley's closes its doors, then the Winding Stair Bookshop and Cafe shuts down. It seems that the number of distinctive, independent businesses in Ireland is getting smaller every week. Rents get higher, particularly in cities, and big chains stores take over. And sometimes, the stress of running a small business in an expensive city just isn't worth it any more. That is one of the reasons Kevin Connolly decided to call it a day with the Winding Stair. "I've always run this business on passion rather than on sense," he says.
And now that his wife has been awarded a music professorship in Ohio, sense has to take over. Having flown back and forth across the Atlantic for several months now, Connolly is closing down the business he started in 1973.
But, as he discovered when he announced the shop and cafe's closure, people still care about the Winding Stair, and other similar businesses. "The response from the public has been overwhelming," says Connolly. "I didn't realise people would be so emotional about it." Perhaps it is because the Winding Stair is one of few distinctive business places in an increasingly bland city.
"I think we have to preserve the things that make us different from other cities," says Connolly. "There should be an incentive for independent and unusual businesses that can satisfy cultural criteria. At the moment, rates and waste charges can be prohibitive. Otherwise we'll be left with nothing but chain stores."
But don't despair, lovers of the small, personal and individual. There are still some shops and cafes that really aren't like anywhere else. Even in cities where chain stores threaten to overwhelm the streets, independent and unusual little shops and cafes are still thriving, unbeaten - so far - by rents and rates. Here are but 12 of the best.
ANTHOLOGY BOOKS, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2
Anthology Books, one of the most welcome additions to Temple Bar in recent times, celebrates its first birthday on May 1st. Inspired by the progressive book shops in New York, where she lived for 15 years, Susan O'Brien founded the shop with her partner, Cecilia Dougherty. As well as books from both mainstream and independent presses, Anthology sells graphic novels, bags and a hand-picked selection of DVDs and videos. Its comfy couches and delicious coffee make it even more enticing. The shop also hosts regular readings, workshops and performances, adding to its appealing "community hub" feel.
THE COBALT CAFÉ AND GALLE 16 North Great George's Street, Dublin 1
How can you resist a cafe that's visited regularly by a friendly robin? The Cobalt Café and Gallery, for me, is one of the most charming eateries in town. Situated on the ground floor of a beautifully preserved Georgian townhouse, the Cobalt was established in 1999 by Dorothy and Eddie Kenny, who live in the upper floors of the house. Perhaps this is why lunching at the Cobalt feels like you're eating in someone's elegantly cosy sitting room. And there's more to the place than nice food - several years ago the owners started exhibiting and selling original art, and the cafe has also hosted cabaret nights. These night-time supper shows will become a weekly event from the end of May.
CHARLES BYRNE MUSIK INSTRUMENTE, 21 Lower Stephen Street, Dublin 2
Charles Byrne's grandfather began making and repairing musical instruments at the turn of the last century. Over a hundred years later, Charles Byrne III carries on the family tradition in one of the most charming little shops in Dublin. Charles Byrne Musik Instrumente (the Germanic name is a result of the shop's European customer base) has occupied its current premises since the 1920s, and has branched out from selling only string instruments to include bodhrans, whistles and musicians' accessories. And although his daughter is now involved in the business, Byrne has no plans to retire. "They'll carry me out of here with an instrument in my hand," he laughs. "They'll have to bury me with my tools!"
MURPHY SHEEHY'S, Castle Market, Dublin 2
Murphy Sheehy's is a much loved shop where you get a sense of discovering bargain fabrics. Long bolts of brightly-coloured cottons, satins and chintzes line the walls, turning the small space into a riot of colour. Now run by Geraldine Murphy, the shop was founded in 1959 by her father, in partnership with the long-gone Sheehy. Originally a drapery and haberdashery situated in South Frederick Street, the business moved to its current home in 1973 and now deals purely in fabric and remnants. Even if you haven't picked up a needle since primary school, this friendly and informative shop would inspire you to start sewing.
AN CAFÉ LITEARTHA, Dykegate Lane, Dingle, Co Kerry
There's been a cafe on the site of Dingle's Café Liteartha since 1934, but it all changed when Seoirse Ó Luasa took over the premises in 1979. Ó Luasa turned the front of the building into a bustling bookshop, while retaining the cafe at the back. Initially Ó Luasa handled book sales and cookery duties, but now he leaves most of the catering to his staff. He insists that the emphasis has always been on books rather than fine dining. However the delightful cafe has won several awards and sells fantastic home-made food.
CROWN JEWELS, Castle Market, Dublin 2
Long before Temple Bar became synonymous with overpriced bars and tourist shops, Crown Jewels on Crown Alley was a mecca for crafty people who wanted to make their own jewellery. However, in 1999 owner Veronica O'Connor decided it was time for a change. "It felt right to move," she says. "Temple Bar had changed so much - it was all about night-time. A lot of the old shops such as Damascus and DV8 closed down. It just wasn't the same." Crown Jewels is still as sparkly and enticing as ever, selling beads, thread and other jewellery-making equipment in its Castle Market location.
ANN McCARTHY ANTIQUES, Paul's Lane, off Paul Street, Cork
Among the lovely old china and bric-a-brac in this long-established Cork antiques shop, you'll find beautiful old linen and lace. There's something captivating about the deliciously cool antique sheets and finely-worked handkerchiefs on sale here. But if you're not into vintage fabrics, you could pick up other treasures, from a 1930s teaset to a tortoise shell clothes-brush.
SOUP DRAGON, 168 Capel Street, Dublin 1
The best soup in Dublin can be found not in a fancy restaurant, but in a small business on Capel Street. Founded five years ago by former teachers Niamh Healion and Fiona Fairbrother, Soup Dragon has attracted a loyal following of soup devotees who can't get enough of its unusual concoctions. All the soups and breads are made on the premises by the owners, and the result is a distinctive little cafe that smells like heaven. Although Soup Dragon only seats 10, Healion and Fairbrother recently branched out, and send some of their soups across the road to café-bar, Gubu. And they do takeaways.
PINOCCHIO'S, 2 Paul Street, Cork
Pinocchio's is full of lovely wooden toys and games which wouldn't have looked out of place under the Christmas tree in The Nutcracker. It's a bit like you imagine Santa's workshop to be. Pinocchio's was established over 20 years ago and is now owned by Wyon and Christel Stansfeld. The shop stocks adult-friendly toys such as juggling balls and chess sets, as well as beautifully made dolls' houses, rocking horses and puppets. Forget the big chain stores with their long aisles full of identical boxes - this is a proper toyshop.
CHARLIE BYRNES, Middle Street, Galway
Charlie Byrne's is a perfect second-hand book shop. In fact, it might be the most perfect second-hand bookshop in Ireland. Spacious, bright and well organised, it's a book lover's dream. While many second-hand book shops seem to buy all their stock in job lots at auctions, forcing would-be buyers to wade through lots of 1970s spy thrillers to get to the good stuff, everything in Charlie Byrne's is chosen for its desirability. Just be prepared to spend at least half an hour exploring its shelves. There's an entire set of bookshelves full of orange-spined Penguin paperbacks from the 1950s and 1960s.
ROAD RECORDS, Fade Street, Dublin 2
Road Records is situated on Fade Street, at the side of the George's Street Arcade. Road was set up in 1997 by Dave Kennedy and Julie Collins. It quickly became known among Dublin's independent music lovers as the friendliest, best stocked store in the city. Forget the record shop music snobs of High Fidelity - Kennedy and Collins are friendly, knowledgeable, and, if you ask, they'll order in just about anything. This is music shopping as it should be.
RHINESTONES, 18 St Andrew's Street, Dublin 2
Forget diamonds - semi-precious stones are a girl's best friend. And there are lots of them to be found at Rhinestones, the costume jewellery shop which is one of Dublin's prettiest stores. Founded 14 years ago by sisters Catherine and Bernadette Butler, Rhinestones is a feast for the eyes, with its carefully displayed vintage costume jewellery. And unlike some jewellery shops, Rhinestones isn't intimidating - you can pick up a lovely bargain for as little as €10.