For the Oysters Chez Panisse: A dish like this cries out for a smashing dry white wine with plenty of acidity. Champagne would be great but so would a top-ranki ng Chablis like Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru 1995 (Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Redmonds, McCabes, Dublin Wine Company Malahide, usually about £15).
For the Spicy Poached Pear with Gorgonzola: Gorgonzola can be tricky - especially in a first course where you may favour white wine. Strike out! Ripe, full Australian Marsanne should offset the saltiness of the cheese, blend in with the pears and cope with that offbeat chilli. Try Mitchelton Thomas Mitchell Marsanne 1995 (Superquinn and many other outlets, £6.99-£7.99)
For the Festive Bird: Match those strong, spicy flavours with a Shiraz or Zinfandel from the Bird-Friendly Reds on opposite page.
For the Brandy Ice Cream: Hungary's famous dessert wine, Tokaji, would be glorious. Try the Royal Tokaji Wine Company's Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos (Mitchells, Findlaters, some others, 50cl bottle about £17.50).