Remember, just as a suitable pudding wine adds interest to the far end of the Christmas dinner, a well-chosen aperitif helps to create a happy mood early on. Fizz of some sort is my favourite for the instant sparkle it imparts but, sacrilegious though it seems, some people prefer other things. Here's a mixed shortlist that may come in handy:
1. Champagne: Not the cheap supermarket stuff, which is often nasty, but something from a reputable maker. If the big names seem too dear, look to smaller but reputable houses like Canard-Duchene (good value at £20£22). 2. Cava: The Spanish sparkler gets better and better while the price stays tempting. Freixenet Cordon Negro, the one in the black bottle, has the advantage of coming in both brut and medium dry form (both usually £9.99) - useful for those who find acidic fizz hard to take early in the day.
3. Bubbles from Down Under: More and more are floating this way, with Australian Pelorus and Green Point the style leaders. Best value, however, for generous pouring is New Zealand's Lindauer Brut from Montana (widely available, usually £10.99).
4. Vouvray: Why are the Loire's loveliest sparklers so hidden from view? Again, the hint of sweetness here can be a bonus in the season of overindulgence and acid tongues. Marc Bredif Vouvray (usually £11.99) is delectable. Seek and, with a bit of luck, ye shall find.
5. Riesling: Germany's best are superlative; Australia's lime-fruitier, less complex, a bit less expensive and for all those reasons easier to get into. Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 1996 (about £9.95) is top of the tree.
6. Marsanne: Here's something to make all sleepy Santa Clauses sip up - because it's lusciously fat and deliciously different. Again, Australia comes up trumps with Chateau Tahbilk Marsanne 1996 (usually £8.99).
7. Jurancon Sec: Another wellkept secret, this time from southwest France, which deserves a Christmas outing. Mouthwatering flavours of ripe fruit, spice and just a smidgen of honey. Order in Chateau Jolys Jurancon Sec 1995 from Wines Direct, 1800 579 579 (£7.45).
8. Torrontes: Argentina provides one of the great aperitif bargains, if you're in the mood for an easily sippable white wine with a fragrant, spicy character. Start with Etchart Torrontes 1995 (usually £4.99).