The home of Jacob's Creek, Lindemans, Penfolds, Rosemount, Wolf Blass and other giant brands has no intention of turning its back on the mass market, mate. On the contrary, the brands will grow. But Australia's carefully mapped strategy will ensure that, in tandem with this, we see an increasing number of low-volume, high-quality wines emanating from small regions to which they are particularly suited. Superb Cabernet from Coonawarra, Riesling from Clare, Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley . . . some are here, more will come.
Try: Coldstream Hills Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley, 1998 (Mitchells, Kildare St & Glasthule; Redmonds, Ranelagh; McCabes, Blackrock and Foxrock; Kellys, Artane; Vineyard, Galway; Octavius, Sligo, and other outlets, usually about £14.50). Uncharacteristically subtle for an Australian, this is a truly tempting Pinot Noir from leading Oz wine guru James Halliday.