Between a yacht and a hard place

Irish taxpayers funded a lavish revamp of an Onassis boat, writes Fintan O'Toole , in an edited extract from his new book.

Irish taxpayers funded a lavish revamp of an Onassis boat, writes Fintan O'Toole, in an edited extract from his new book.

She was the ultimate symbol of vulgar wealth, a sleek, 325-foot, shimmering white luxury yacht proudly displaying the Onassis signature, the yellow funnel. The ship had begun life in 1943 as the Canadian naval frigate Stormont, a convoy escort. The Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis purchased her in 1948 for just $34,000 and converted her during the early 1950s into the most sumptuous private yacht that the world had ever seen, at the then phenomenal cost of more than $4 million. He called her Christina O, after his daughter whose tragic death would later symbolise the other side of wealth.

The rich and famous found the offer of a cruise on the Christina O hard to resist. Winston Churchill, Marilyn Monroe, Princess Grace, Frank Sinatra, Maria Callas and, of course, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis enjoyed all the facilities of a yacht the size of a three-storey New York brownstone mansion. Yet the vulgarity could not be hidden. "Ari's Bar" where Onassis presented the young John F. Kennedy to Sir Winston Churchill, who was a frequent guest throughout his retirement, had tiny models that displayed the development of ships and shipping throughout history. On the wall was a map showing the daily position of the Onassis fleet. The circular bar was adorned with footrests and handholds of ornately carved and polished whales' teeth collected by Onassis's whalers. But the barstools were covered with the foreskin of a whale, and Onassis thought it was the height of wit to point this out to any woman who sat on one.

The stools have now been re-covered in fine leather, after an extensive refurbishment of the yacht in 1998. The middle deck now houses a banquet-size, split-level, formal dining room that seats up to 40 guests. Its Baccarat wall-lamps are original. The porcelain service is by Bernardaud of Limoges, the glasses are Waterford crystal by John Rocha and the silverware is by Ercuis and Saint Hilaire of Paris.

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According to the online promotional blurb for paying guests, alongside the dining hall is a raised music room with a grand piano and a pair of conversation areas. It contains a collection of Maria Callas memorabilia, including the only gold record awarded to her. On the main deck there is a new gym and, for guests in need of a bit more pampering, there is a new massage room and beauty salon. Renzo Romagnoli created the new sports lounge, featuring Onassis's original sextant wall-lamps and gaming tables with large, comfortable seating.

Spanning the massive stern is the open pool deck where opera diva Maria Callas loved to relax during her tumultuous relationship with Onassis. Its centrepiece is the bronze-bordered pool inlaid with mosaic frescos of ancient Crete. At the push of a button, the bottom raises to the deck level, becoming an instant dance floor.

Past the central atrium and spiral staircase, the original guest staterooms, which Marilyn Monroe, Eva Peron, Greta Garbo and John Wayne once occupied, have been reconfigured. Each air-conditioned and soundproofed suite now has a large seating area, a bureau, a walk-in closet, twin or double beds and large portholes, not to mention the luxurious en-suite marble bathrooms with showers. Each suite is equipped with a full entertainment system with TV, DVD and CD players.

The reception hall that hosted some of the 20th century's most famed wedding receptions - Princess Grace and Prince Rainier of Monaco in 1954 and Onassis' 1968 marriage to Jacqueline Kennedy - has been elegantly updated with sofas, armchairs, cocktail tables and accent pieces by Giorgetti. It also converts into a state-of-the-art cinema.

The original boat deck has been converted into a spacious Jacuzzi deck complete with alfresco dining facilities, a large circular bar and a raised sun terrace with spa pool and teak chaise-longues. The plane deck, where Onassis kept his seaplane, is now a helipad.

Why is all of this of the slightest interest to Irish taxpayers? Because they paid for it. According to reports in May, 2003, a consortium of wealthy Irish businessmen and professionals purchased the Christina O for $50 million.

Irish tax law allows the purchasers of the Christina O, which is available for hire and is therefore regarded as a business, to claim capital allowances for this purchase and for the yacht's refurbishment and to set these costs against their Irish income for tax avoidance. This is estimated to have cost the Irish Exchequer €25 million. The Dáil was informed that the Revenue Commissioners were "fully aware" of the situation, although Minister of State for Finance, Tom Parlon, asserted that the Exchequer "must and will" protect taxpayers against such dubious activities which threaten to erode the tax base. Parlon also said, however, that he was unable to comment on the specifics of the case, citing confidentiality in individual and corporate taxpayer affairs.

After the Ball by Fintan O'Toole will be published next week by New Island and tasc (a think tank for action on social change) at €11.99. Roddy Doyle will introduce Fintan O'Toole at tasc's first annual public lecture, Ireland After the Boom, next Wednesday at 7 p.m., at the RHA Gallery, Dublin. All welcome