Difficult - very difficult. Any one of the wines featured right would be a worthy Bottle of the Week. It just happens that Canepa Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 (outlets right, £7.99) stole out of the shadows to seize the crown with its subtle, savoury style. Luscious smoothness gives way to a nice meaty, peppery bite. It's all set to prove itself with the Sunday roast.