With chill winds and piping casseroles in the air, the star bottle has to be one that offers round, peppery, warming flavours at a decent price. That's Cappello di Prete Rosso del Salento 1994 (Findlaters, £7.99; other outlets soon) - the newest wine to arrive here from Candido, a substantial and reliable producer on Italy's heel. Pure Negroamaro aged in oak, it's full-bodied and compelling, almost port-like in its richness. Wow!