IT'S difficult enough to find exciting Californian wine here in the middle price range - wedged between the big brands and the boutique wineries. But Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 1995 (outlets below, usually £8.99) is a star exception - from an Alexander Valley winery which keeps piling up prizes and high ratings in Wine Spectator. It's a succulent, elegant wine which would flatter almost any kind of food - or any kind of guests. A delicious all-rounder to enjoy all year round.