If your evening is as lively and lighthearted as Dr F. Weins-Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling QbA, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 1995 (outlets above, usually £8.49) you'll be doing well. Almost spritzy at first, then slowly opening out until it tastes like a sun-ripened dessert apple, it's a wine that keeps its charm. And, at just 8.5 per cent alcohol, one that allows you to keep your head. Stand up straight for the Riesling revival! This is just one of an exciting range of German wines now being made more widely available through the combined efforts of Joe Karwig and the SuperValu/Centra.