What you probably need most urgently this evening is a bottle to open and enjoy in the interval between thawing out your poor, frozen person and heating up the oven. You may also want to choose something with immediate appeal for friends and neighbours, something that doesn't cause an almighty bang in the family exchequer either. On all these counts, Tyrrells Old Winery Shiraz, Hunter Valley, 1995 (outlets above, usually £7.99- £8.99) emerges as a winner. A smooth, warming blend of dark fruit flavours and gentle spice, it has enough juicy acidity to keep you sipping, with or without food.