My first glass of Gallo Sonoma, Sonoma County Pinot Noir 1995 (outlets left, usually £8.99) was with duck. Smashing. The second sampling was with the dubious reheated leftovers of pasta in a lemon and cream sauce. A minifeast. Tentatively, the next evening, I had a final glass on its own. Delectable again - a light and subtle Californian Pinot with lovely, soft fruit and gentle spice. You'd simply never guess this engaging, individualistic wine comes from the biggest winery in the world - were it not, perhaps, for the wonderful price. Well done, Gallo.