You'll remember this bottle - nicknamed Twiggy - because a bit of twig on a length of red ribbon dangles dubiously around its neck. Bad sign, you may surmise - marketing in overdrive. But I think you may also remember Cantina Zaccagnani, il vino dal Tralcetto, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 1997 (stockists right, usually £8.95) because it's a really tasty, lively wine, packed with Italian character, at a decent price. Last year Searsons of Monkstown had everybody talking about the brilliant Spanish wines they'd sourced to deliver value. This year they've done the same thing with Italy. Bravo!