If you're into buttoned up restraint, stop reading now. But if you're tempted to try a mouthful or two of those extravagant McLaren Vale flavours without extravagant outlay, seek out Tesco McLaren Vale Shiraz 1997 (Tesco, £8.99). Black fruits, caramel, tobacco, spice, black pepper, chocolate . . . they're all there in this Maglieri-made wine. McLaren Vale lavishness in microcosm!