In the closest of contests, Finches Still Irish Spring Water (widely available from independents, 2-litre plastic bottle rsp 99 pence) edged ahead - light and refreshing with a slightly salty tang.
And it wins extra points for coming in a pretty, returnable fluted blue glass bottle in restaurants and pubs.
Perrier Natural Mineral Water (outlets right, 75cl glass bottle rsp 79 pence) was the sparkler that won the tasters' hearts. "Very cleansing, lively, distinctive, vivacious, well balanced" ran their verdicts. It will soon be available in many more outlets. Back to the future?