First, Burgundy - classic and impeccable. Not always easy to find in affordable form, but here are two outstanding exceptions which you can have delivered to your door. Handcrafted by a pair of perfectionists who follow biodynamic principles, Macon- Clesse Quintaine, Domaine Guillemot-Michel, 1996 (Burgundy Direct, tel 01 289 6615, email burgundy@indigo.ie, £11.35 if you buy a case, which may be mixed) is probably the best Macon I've ever tasted - gloriously ripe and pure. Simple as that. And Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits, Domaine Francois Gerbet, 1996 (Burgundy Direct, details above, £10.95 if you buy a case which may be mixed), made from the fruit of old vines, is a foolproof red Burgundy at this price - subtle and delicious. These two, come to think of it, may trigger francomania all over again.
The New World alternative has to be sophisticated enough to pass muster with any wine-obsessed guests. Look to Australia, bypassing those big Chardonnays for tastier, trendier Riesling. Heggies Eden Valley Riesling 1998 (Berry Bros Harry St, Vintry Rathgar, McCabes Merrion, Kellys Clontarf, SuperValu Raheny, Bennetts Howth, Spar Monkstown, Cheers-Burnaby Greystones, O'Donovans Cork and other leading off-licences, about £10.99) is a stunner, with ripe, slightly honeyed fruit lifted by tingling acidity; great with fresh-tasting fish or vegetable-based starters - or any first-course smacking of the orient. Team it with Rothbury Estate Brokenback Shiraz, Hunter Valley, 1996 (same outlets as for Riesling, £12.99£13.99). This beauty is lighter, juicier and more flexible (in terms of what it goes with, and who it pleases), than blockbuster Shiraz. Perfect with lamb, beef or game; a treat with goose or turkey. I've even seen it to slip down well with a Thai prawn curry.