Colour stages a comeback for spring collections

Spring collections have arrived in Kilkenny, the Nassau Street shop

Spring collections have arrived in Kilkenny, the Nassau Street shop. While there are many top designer names here, the star of the show is Mary Donoghue, the designer of the in-house Art of Dressing label.

Clever at simplicity, and knowledgeable about fabrics, especially if they are of the lush kind, she has produced four groups which differ mainly in the colours used rather than in design or fabric changes. In fact it is all about colour.

And it is gorgeous. Powder-blue is often worn with white; cognac is teamed with white and black, making for some sophistication; oatmeal goes with olive; and white is worn on its own. That is how the designer co-ordinates her choice of colours. Others might do it differently, but few could do it better.

The same fabrics run throughout: the softest suede, so pretty in the powder-blue, the finest linen knits, and high-sheen cotton complement one another, and all suggest, but never shout, luxury.

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The cut is plain, the line simple. There is variety, too. Such as linen skirts (various lengths) and knits that include tank tops, halter necks and sleeveless sweaters with high necks, while a silk chiffon dress in two tones of blue (£129.95) is a great charmer.

Suede is used for great trousers (£299), and jackets of different styles, and even a full-length coat. It seems to be the fabric of the season.

Loosely described at the St Tropez look, Mary Donoghue's collection is one of comfort cleverly made to look smart.

Kilkenny carries many top labels, and all seem to be saying it's time for something feminine and deadly simple, with colour stealing back into fashion.