WRITE ABOUT FIZZ that won’t give you a headache the morning after, I was told. Easier said than done, unless you sample half-a-dozen glasses of sparkling wine every night for a few weeks. To be honest, I wasn’t sure my stomach was quite up to it. All sparkling wine has fairly high acidity, so anyone who suffers from dyspepsia should certainly beware. But the real problem is we like fizz a little too much at times. It is all too easy to knock back a couple of glasses at the start of a party, and then regret it more and more as the evening progresses.
I have heard arguments in favour of drinking more expensive sparkling wine as a way of avoiding hangovers. There may be some truth in this, but I doubt it. Part of any headache may be down to the level of sulphur dioxide in the bottle. All wines, white wines in particular, have some SO2. It is possible that cheaper sparkling wines may have higher levels to keep them stable, but I have no proof of this. I do find older wines of all description are less likely to make you suffer. With red wines, the tannins drop out with age, so I can see how they are easier on the system. Maybe the same holds true for sparkling wine (and mature examples can be wonderful) but again I have only hearsay as evidence.
In an effort to track down the best-value bottles, I tried a series of supermarket Champagnes. The two in Bottles of the Week were very pleasant and pretty good value. As well as these, I have recommended two particular favourites in recent weeks, the Marguet and the Larmandier-Bernier. If Champagne seems a little too pricey, both New Zealand and Australia produce some very good sparkling wines at under €20.
BOTTLES OF THE WEEK
Moscato Freisa Vino Spumante NV, Piedmont, 6.5%, €12.29Low in alcohol but full of sweet, grapey, strawberry fruits, this really is the ultimate pop-and-go fun wine to crack open on New Year's Eve, or when you feel a mini-celebration is due. It is a much lighter alternative to heavy, sweet wines when serving fruit desserts. Stockist: Marks Spencer
Tesco's Finest Prosecco NV, 11.5%, €14.99Although not the cheapest, this is one of the better value Prosecco available at the moment. With fresh pear fruits, a light fizz and a rounded finish, this is a great fruity alternative to the generally drier Champagne. Stockist: Tesco
Jacob's Creek Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV, 11.5%, €15Not dissimilar in style, but with a bit more fruit, I would prefer it to just about any Champagne under €25. This rosé is very enjoyable too. Stockists: Widely available
Lombard Champagne NV, 12%, €20This is a very attractive inexpensive Champagne. Rounded, with rich redcurrant and red-apple fruits, a fairly crisp finish, with good length. Stockist: Dunnes Stores
Tesco Finest Premier Cru Champagne, 12.5%, €24.99The nose has a nice elegant freshness and some yeastiness; on the palate it is rich with some very attractive redcurrants and brioche, finishing with real length. Very good value. Stockist: Tesco
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV, 12.5%, €65.99Described as liquid candy by the winemaker, this is an unashamedly fruit-driven Champagne. Made 100 per cent from Chardonnay, it has a lightly gingery nose with plump peaches, pineapple and lemons on the palate. Stockists: Jus De Vine, Portmarknock; Wines on the Green and Corkscrew, Dublin 2
Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne NV, 12%, €165Krug is one of the great names in Champagne, and one of my favourites when somebody else is paying. Possibly lighter in style than in years past, it remains one of the very finest Champagnes on the market. Stockists: Widely available
