THE LIMERICK climber who died after becoming the first Irishman to climb K2, the world’s second highest mountain, is to be awarded a prestigious Italian alpine rescue award.
The family of Gerard “Ger” McDonnell will receive the Targa d’Argento Pinzolo Gold Medal on his behalf for his decision to risk his own life to assist others.
The 37-year-old is believed to have been struck by a serac (a ridge of ice) after he spent a number of hours assisting several Korean climbers and their Sherpa on the descent from K2 on August 2nd, 2008.
Mountain Rescue Ireland nominated McDonnell for the award, which was initiated in 1972 by Angiolino Binelli, then chief of the Pinzolo Alpine Rescue Squad.
After participating in a difficult rescue, Mr Binelli felt that a specific accolade was required for members of the mountain community who had distinguished themselves in assisting others. The Targa d’Argento honours those who risk their life for others.
Its inspiration is derived from “the simplicity and straightforward nature of mountain people and from their principles of true human solidarity”, according to Mountain Rescue Ireland public relations officer Gerry Christle.
“It also celebrates those who leave home, work and family, to go where someone needs help, without expecting any reward beyond human fellowship,” he said. As a result, past non-climbing recipients have included Pope John Paul II (2004) and the Dalai Lama (2001).
The albo d'oro, or gold medal, is dedicated to the memory of those who have died, and is presented to the family of the deceased person at a ceremony in Pinzolo, Italy, on the last Saturday of September every year.
McDonnell was not a formal member of any rescue team. He worked in Alaska as an engineer for a number of years. However, Mountain Rescue Ireland said that there were many instances where he helped others on previous mountaineering expeditions.
In 1999 on Denali, Alaska’s highest peak, McDonnell and fellow climber Mike Mays rescued two exhausted Korean women climbers, and also assisted three South Africans, one with snow blindness.
Two years later, McDonnell was among a group that helped a female climber down from above 5,000m. McDonnell climbed Everest on his second attempt in 2003. He spent three nights above 8,000m and rescued team leader Pat Falvey, who was suffering from altitude sickness.
McDonnell was among a group of climbers trapped above the Bottleneck gully on K2 on the night of August 1st after successfully summiting. On his descent attempt the following morning, he spent several hours assisting several Koreans and a Sherpa guide who had become trapped in their ropes and suspended upside down.
After over three hours, he succeeded in saving the group. He is believed to have been following them down when a serac gave way and swept him to his death. A second snow and ice fall claimed the lives of the other climbers.
John Dowd, a member of Kerry Mountain Rescue who climbed with McDonnell in Alaska and Pakistan, said that the award was a great privilege and honour for the late mountaineer. He will be representing the organisation at the award ceremony in September.
“Ger just couldn’t walk away without helping people,” Mr Dowd said yesterday.
McDonnell’s brother JJ said yesterday, “It is very good news and incredible that Ger has been recognised internationally once again . . . It is in some way comforting, yet hard also on the eve of his second anniversary.”
A small group of family members plan to climb Carrauntouhill today to visit a plaque on the summit in the climber’s memory.
