PARIS FASHION WEEK:IT WAS all sails hoisted to a full wind at Dior.
John Galliano’s first model got his show off to a jaunty start clad in a crisp white cotton parka and flouncy dress, her sailor cap and salute setting the nautical theme of the spring/summer collection.
This allowed for a stylish play on peacoats and matelot pants with wavy-haired models in rope-soled stilettoes wearing eyeshadow as red as their lipstick.
Hot tropical colours and the rich prints of hibiscus, orchids and palms on long breezy dresses allowed Galliano free rein for a show whose main focus was on dresses. Apart from cute denim macramé skirts or neat navy jackets teamed with beige pants or shorts, the collection seemed aimed at sirens of the red carpet rather than of the deep urban streets.
A tangerine print sundress and another embellished with mother of pearl were very beautiful but with so much macramé knotting, embroidery, feathers and shell detail, the show occasionally lost its anchor.
Roland Mouret, he of the famous Galaxy dress, has regained his name and his show in the Westin Hotel was a confident statement that he not only can make sexy dresses with a sporty modern look, but also shapes to flatter the not-so-trim figure. The longer navy, silk dresses with criss-cross strapping were wonderful, the denim crops and billowing parachute silk shirts easy to wear, while his finale of black form-fitting dresses are bound to be bestsellers. He’s due to open his own shop in Mayfair next spring. The dress, in colours from earthy and restrained to bright and zany, reappeared again centre stage at Lanvin last night. In strong, simple silhouettes that tight jersey tops emphasised, and to which a shawl belted at the waist added extra flamboyance, their cut was strict and controlled, their line slim and long. Skirt suits with matching leggings gave a streetwise touch to this fine collection. Lanvin is collaborating with the Swedish giant HM and his affordable designs for them will hit 200 HM stores in November.