`Pure wilderness." A "dense, semi-impenetrable thicket". A typical example of a cultivated area that "has not died, but has simply gone to sleep". Just some first impressions of a north Mayo wonderland, now transformed for official "unveiling" today by the Minister for Tourism and Sport, Dr McDaid.
Late autumn may seem like a strange time to open a garden, but there is method to this apparent madness. Shadowed by Nephin mountain, and with stunning views of Lough Conn to the south-east, the ornamental walled garden at Enniscoe House, just outside Crossmolina, is one of some 20 "great gardens" being revitalised by EU funds. This programme is due to run out shortly - hence the pressure to display the results, even for a day.
Last week, as an area of high pressure sat over the Atlantic seaboard, preparations were at fever pitch to trim borders and mow new lawns saturated by recent rain. A mature and healthy Trachycarpus, some fuschia, berberis, vinca, rhododendrons and a tree of heaven - Atlanthus Altissima - were among the original plants that survived some 35 years of wilderness. It was during that period that the walled garden "returned to nature", retaining most of its original features beneath dense growth, according to garden architect Mr Thomas McErlean.
Mr McErlean was engaged by Enniscoe House's owner, Ms Susan Kellett, to carry out an archaeological evaluation of the area prior to its restoration. "Terrifying" is how she describes the ambitious project, which dates back to 1996. When she inherited Enniscoe - originally "Inis Cua", the island of the hounds - from relatives with a lineage dating back to the Cromwellian era, the major challenge was to make the 150-acre estate pay.
The Georgian house, which was originally a mid-19th century farmhouse with several additions, is listed in Blue Book and Hidden Ireland guides as a heritage property and has offered accommodation for several decades. Ms Kellett has also begun renovating stables into self-catering apartments, which will be available next season. Old farm buildings were taken over by the local historical society to set up the successful North Mayo Heritage Centre. Opened in 1992, the centre houses a family history research section, and a museum.
It is an area rich in history and legend, and ripe for such research. Named after the Ui Fiachrach family, who owned the lands and were renowned for their greyhounds, Enniscoe was one of the chief residences of the local kings. In 1162, MacFirbis records that Taithleach Mor O'Dowd of Inis Cua was killed in a dispute over a greyhound whelp.
The Conn lakeshores bore witness to the tribal feuds and strife dating from the coming of Christianity, the invasions of the Danes and Normans, right down to Cromwellian times. Owned by the Bourkes until the end of the 16th century, Enniscoe was redistributed along with lands to the north to Cromwell's troops.
Francis Jackson, a junior officer in an English cavalry regiment, was given his charter signed by King Charles II in 1669. In the 1790s, the house was enlarged considerably; the French army stopped and took a sup or two there en route from Killala to Ballinamuck.
It was during that extension that the garden was first developed, becoming an ornamental landscape around 1870. It probably reached its zenith under the previous owner but one, Mervyn Pratt - a first World War survivor and bachelor with a passion for angling and gardening. When Ms Kellett's father, Prof Jack Nicholson, inherited it, he had no option but to retain his job as head of veterinary science in University College, Dublin, to subsidise the Mayo demesne. As a result, although he tried some market gardening, much of the cultivation was let go, and greenhouses that included a piped heating system began to deteriorate.
Similarly, Ms Kellett had her hands full when she and her brother took over Enniscoe. While concentrating on farming and accommodation, she came up with several initiatives to use the demesne to the full and provide local employment. There was the heritage centre, and a forge, which ran blacksmithing courses. A new forge area is being constructed for similar workshops. In 1995, she leased out an area of the old walled garden for organic produce at nominal rent.
AS for the walled garden itself, it was "never in the plan". She remembered creeping into it as a child, gazing in wonder at the vegetation. "It was a real secret garden, with lots of little places to hide. You could not see from one side to the other."
Come the EU initiative, introduced in 1994, and she was persuaded. "I knew if I didn't do it then, I never would."
The scheme allows for capital cost of restoration as part of the State's cultural and architectural heritage. Funding can be up to 50 per cent of the total capital costs, drawn down from the European Regional Development Fund. Private garden owners who avail of FAS Community Employment Schemes as part of the project can achieve a possible combined total of 75 per cent EU grant aid.
Central to Enniscoe's success was Deirdre Rutledge, a horticultural student from Termonfeckin in Co Louth who came there on work experience. She cleared the initial pathway from north-east to south-east, making many observations which formed the basis of Mr McErlean's report. Employed as a FAS supervisor, she has recently left for a new job in Co Louth.
Paul Maher of the National Botanical Gardens in Dublin was engaged as consultant, and drew up a detailed plan which mapped out some 240 plants. A conservatory to provide tea rooms and an entrance, linking to the heritage centre, was designed by architect Jeremy Williams. Ms Kellett is keen to credit almost everyone except herself. "Well, I do the books, the paperwork," she says. "And there is plenty of that."
Thanks to her enterprise and vision, there are now about 30 people employed either full-time or on part-time work or FAS schemes on the estate. Latterly, she has concentrated her farming efforts on forestry, along with set-aside, and has laid out nature walks around the estate. All in all, it means that visitors will be able to lose many hours in a small part of paradise on Lough Conn's north-west shore.
Enniscoe's walled garden will be open to the public next year, and further details can be obtained by phoning (096)31112.
Hedgerow management is the title of one of the demonstrations planned for a countryside forum to be held by Teagasc at Mellows Agricultural College, Athenry, Co Galway, next Saturday. Stone wall building and maintenance, tree planting and maintenance, tree surgery, rare breeds, organic farming and profitable drystock farming will also be covered during the open day, which runs from 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Expert advice will be available from Teagasc staff, as well as from participating organisations, and there will be general information on the REPS scheme.
The event is being held by Teagasc in conjunction with Crann (also hosting Feile Shamhna na gCrann 88, the annual festival of trees), Coillte, Duchas, the Farm Relief Service and rare breed societies. Further details from Mellows Agricultural College at (091) 845200.
