After decades in the doghouse - in disgrace for dilute, sugary plonk which cast a pall on just about every wine, good or bad, in a tall bottle - Germany is making a welcome comeback. Her wines are misunderstood, and no wonder: even wine buffs have a hard time with those complicated labels. But after years of big, fat Chardonnays, they are exactly what we need: light, perky wines that don't quickly become tiresome. Until recently, good examples were available here only from a handful of merchants, but things are moving. Check out SuperValu/Centra, and Molloys, for keenly priced Germans to wake up the tastebuds.
Try: Vier Jahreszeiten Durkheimer Schenkenbohl Spatburgunder Weissherbst, Pfalz, 1998 (Molloys, £7.99). A bottle to keep handy for popping in the fridge when you crave a light, refreshing glass. This is a fantastic new German - peachy, lemony and mouthwatering. And a change from Riesling.