Mention student fashion design and the inevitable image springing to mind is of unwearable clothes - indeed, of items often including no fabric whatsoever and barely worth describing as clothes. Giving students an opportunity to enjoy total freedom of expression may be a thrilling experience for the young budding talents, but rarely for anyone else. Attending student fashion shows too often takes on the character of a penance, not a pleasure. This year, however, there appears to have been a radical change of approach. Many of the latest fashion graduates from the National College of Art and Design have adopted a kinder, gentler - and, quite frankly, more wearable - approach to their collections. In this, they are following the mood of the moment, which has shifted away from aggressive modernism towards a contemporary interpretation of romanticism. Hard-edged minimalism in fashion is now definitely out of favour, replaced by delicacy, softness and even daintiness.
These qualities are apparent in many of the new student collections in which a traditional femininity comes to the fore. Typical of this charming new spirit are the clothes designed by Jane Rafter. She calls her collection Let's Do Lunch Dahling!, describing it as "elegant lunchwear for the sophisticated lady". There are certainly plenty such women around now and they will delight in what has been produced. Mostly separates, the items come in rich but subdued colours such as olive green and purple, with linen a popular choice of fabric. A feature of Jane's work is the incorporation of floral motifs, whether through the use of applique, embroidery or silk flowers stitched onto the surface of the piece. Her ruffle-front blouse in mid-grey chiffon is particularly alluring and certainly has instantaneous commercial appeal.
That strong streak of common sense, allied with an equal love of delicacy, is apparent in Jennifer Choi's designs. Been Fa, as her collection is named, uses muted shades almost throughout as well as plenty of devore fabrics to offer sheerness without losing respectability. Materials here include velvet and satin crepe as well as transparent mesh. The last of these was used for the double-layered skirt shown here, its surface strewn with iridescent sequins stitched on by hand.
Sequins show up too in Hot Stuff, the collection from Natalie Bhogal. This is quite obviously a more colourful, vibrant range than the other two, taking its inspiration from the hot spices of India - and using that country's sari silks. Boldly contrasting shades are put together, united by the use of gold thread embroidery as well as sequins and beading. These are exuberant clothes and although not for the timid dresser, they are still perfectly wearable.
And that is the other common thread between these diverse collections. Every item in them could be worn by the majority of women with ease and pleasure. There would be no need to consider major alterations to cut or style, because the clothes are already in tune with potential customer's needs. It makes a refreshing change not to be reporting on student designs which could only ever be seen in a handful of youthful nightclubs. The weird and wacky suddenly looks rather old-fashioned.
This year's NCAD Degree Graduate Fashion Show sponsored by Debenhams will be staged twice on Wednesday, 27th May. Tickets for the first show at 5.30 p.m. cost £5 each, for the 8.30 p.m. gala show £15 (including programme and interval reception). Tickets can be purchased from Debenhams, or the NCAD fashion department, Tel. 01-6711377/203.