White
La Passion, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse 1999 (Super Valu, £4.49). Drinkable white wine at a budget price is much more elusive than palatable red; red can be beefed up in various ways to make it seem more sexy. But here's a notable exception - a fruity, deliciously thirst-quenching southern French white which I think far outshines its the corresponding red. Less than a fiver - and far more enticing than any cheapo Chardonnay. Tesco Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 1998/99 (Tesco, £5.29). A blast from the past that deserves a retrial. See Bottle of the Week.
Red
M. Chapoutier Les Matines, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence 1998 (Pettitts in southeast, £6.99). Another tempting number from the Midi, where Rhone star Marc Chapoutier has extended his operation. Tempting aromas of red summer fruits translate, on the palate, into vibrant fruity flavours with smooth, peppery length. True to Chapoutier form, it's biodynamic - see www.chapoutier.com