Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, 1996, (Searsons, £28.50)
A steep price, but this is an Australian Chardonnay like no other I've come across to date - a wine that combines enormous power and concentration with tautness and great elegance. Garlanded with accolades from the start, Leeuwin Chardonnay was awarded the highest points ever for a white wine by Wine Spectator. Sublime, but available only in tiny quantities.
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992
(Searsons, Grapes of Mirth Rathmines, Naturally Naas, usually around £16.95)
This one, by contrast, seems like a bargain. Smooth, rich and complex with intense, lingering flavours, it's a world class wine at a reasonable price - the sort of thing that might make Bordeaux lovers switch their loyalties overnight. Perfect for a special meal or a special present.