Portumna, on the border of Tipperary and Galway, lies where the Shannon river meets Lough Derg. Its castle overlooks much of those counties as well as parts of Clare and Offaly and it was here, at this pivotal crossroads, that the Burkes concentrated their power, surviving for almost 500 years.
Descendants of the Norman family de Burgo who came to Ireland with Prince John in 1185, the family had become Burkes as the Normans became gaelicised. By 1543, however, Ulick Burke, with an eye to the future of his clan, acceded to Henry VIII's plan Surrender and Regrant, and was created Earl of Clanricarde.
Portumna Castle was built in 1616 by Richard Clanricarde, then governor of Galway, who spent the then enormous sum of £10,000 building the semi-fortified house to replace the family's earlier castle at Loughrea and to consolidate his claim to the medieval de Burgo lordship of Connaught.
At the time, the building of Portumna Castle was an architectural novelty. The plan was for a double-pile house, meaning that it was two rooms in depth, which was a change from the typical tower house or courtyard-style building of the time.
It was designed to be easily defended, with strong exterior walls and two massive interior walls running the length of the house to support the roof. This gave a 10-ft gallery between the two parallel blocks which al lowed two sets of rooms to be used, one for the family and one for important visitors.
The approach through Portumna leads through a series of three imposing gateways. Matching gate lodges were designed by Sir Richard Morrison, a prominent architect in the early 19th century. The middle gate and lodges provided further security while the final one, the Tuscan gate, was an ornate affair with architectural motifs.
The southern side of the house includes a small circular porch which was added in 1797 and bears an inscription dedicated to a dog. The windows on this side of the house provide views over the lake and Portumna Forest Park, part of which was once a deer park.
The house finally succumbed to that traditional scourge of the "big house", the accidental fire, in 1826. The Clanricardes still in residence simply moved to the stables for a few decades and began building a new house in 1862.
On the death of the heir to the estate, Ulick Clanricarde, in 1867, the new house was left unfinished and was itself burnt in 1922. In 1916 the estate was inherited by Viscount Lascelles, the last Marquis of Clanricarde. It was sold to the State in 1948 and came under the control of the Office of Public Works.
It was declared a national monument and conservation work got under way in 1968. It is now administered by Duchas, the State heritage service.
Today Portumna Castle has been brought back from ruin with the addition of a new roof, the rebuilding of much of the inner double supporting walls, and refurbishment of the carved stone windows. It is open to the public as a "restoration in progress".
Visitors enter through the lodges of the middle gateway which serve as an information centre and admissions office. Inside, a series of exhibits tells the story of the house and the Clanricardes. The two upper floors are only partially restored, but visitors can see the work continues. Outside, a walled forecourt has been rebuilt and the gardens laid out with geometric paths and formal enclosures. A large walled garden is being restored as an organic garden with the aid of a Fas scheme.
The castle's southern boundary with the lake has been developed as a public marina for pleasure boats on Lough Derg. Duchas hopes the restoration will contribute to the kind of "cluster attraction" which would bring additional tourists to the area. Portumna Castle and the accompanying forest park are open seven days a week until October. Further information from Duchas on 01647 3000 or the Visitors' Centre, Portumna Castle, on 0509-41658.
