The first peas arrive at the country market, and we snap them up, the surest sign of summer, and drive home thinking of risi e bisi, the classic Italian risotto which was traditionally served to the Doge of Venice on St Mark's Day, April 25th, when the first peas arrived at the Rialto market. The classic Venetian dish uses the pea pods to make a sweet stock, and uses nothing else but minced bacon and chopped parsley and fennel, along with the peas. However, many years ago I came across a recipe, in The Italian Cookery Book, by The Italian Academy of Cookery, where the rice and peas are cooked with chicken livers, and it was this I cooked with the first peas of 1998.
Risotto With Chicken Livers And Peas
1 small onion
125g/4 oz butter
275g/10 oz chicken livers
Salt
1.5 litres/2 1/2 pints meat stock
50g/2oz prosciutto (green bacon is perfect)
275g/10oz arborio rice
225g/8oz shelled peas
50g/2oz grated Parmesan cheese
1 sprig parsley
Chop half the onion and lightly saute in a small pan with a third of the butter. Add the livers, a little salt and 125g/4 fl oz stock. Simmer for 10 minutes.
Chop the remaining half onion and the prosciutto. Fry the onion in a separate saucepan with half of the remaining butter. Add the prosciutto; after two minutes add the peas, 125ml/4 fl oz stock and slowly simmer for 15-20 minutes.
Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan. Add the rice, stir well, pour in the remaining hot stock and boil for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the grated Parmesan, chopped parsley, peas and livers, mix well and serve.