Ireland’s first home-grown cooper in more than 30 years has just qualified, extending a family tradition which dates back to before the start of the second World War.
While the art of making and caring for wooden barrels by hand has largely disappeared in the face of modern production and storage methods, Chris Kane from Bushmills, Co Antrim, walked away from what he described as a “good sensible job” four years ago, to learn the craft his father, grandfather and great- grandfather had learned before him.
His great-grandfather Jimmy, started coopering at the Bushmill’s Whiskey Distillery in 1935 and was followed by his son Johnny in 1951. He passed the barrel role on to his son, Alastair, two decades later.
And now the latest Kane to cooper has picked up his tools, the very same tools, incidentally, his great-grandfather used more than 80 years ago.
He first took an interest in his father’s job when he was nine, and the father and son team are now working side-by-side in the Old Bushmills Distillery Cooperage.
“It might not be an obvious career choice but coopering has been a part of my life since I was a young guy,” the youngest Kane said.
“When the apprenticeship opportunity came up four years ago, I left what was probably deemed a good ‘sensible’ job to follow what has always been my real passion.
“The wood, barrels, tools and craft, along with the opportunity to work with my dad each day, have given me the chance to contribute to the Bushmills Irish Whiskey story - it’s a dream job.”
The master blender at the distillery, Helen Mullholland, described Kane as a “true artist, born to his craft”.
She said the skill and attention that is required to cooper “is nothing short of spectacular” and described it as fundamental to the Irish Whiskey making process.”.
As much as 80 per cent of the character of an Irish whiskey comes from the cask which means coopers are central to the process.
While most of the barrels in which Irish whiskeys is distilled are pre-used and imported from wine producing regions, Kane will be mainly tasked with repairing and maintaining the casks.