LONDON FASHION WEEK:AS A fashion capital, London is harnessing its creativity in more commercial and confident ways as many collections proved at the weekend.
More and more designers are drawing on native traditions and skills using modern technology to amplify and advance new ideas. Shows are starting on time and heritage has become a buzz word to explain the widespread use of tweed, plaids, tartans and knitwear all over the catwalks. Irish designers were no exception.
John Rocha’s heavily handworked textures embellished the curving shapes of his dark wintry collection.
A luxuriant black cape, a thick tangle of plaits and cables set the tone for romantic and graceful full-skirted black tweeds shot with tinsel or appliquéd with crochet embroidery.
More challenging to wear were suits with dropped shoulder lines and asymmetric flared hems, but the faux fur that decorated menswear jackets gave the otherwise strict tailoring a feral air.
The plaids and checks of her native Scotland were the starting point for Louise Gray’s madcap play of overlaid pixellated prints, stripes and spots and multicoloured ribbon weaving. Her Aran knits were deconstructions of red, green and blue panels, her pinafores a mix of zany patchwork – and everyone loved the whistle earrings.
There was more sobriety and military severity in Jaeger’s well-drilled line-up of handsome winter coats, curvy riding skirts and jerkins.
Maxi-length greatcoats featured exaggerated reveres and storm flaps, a bulky look echoed in Betty Jackson’s overpowering collection of tomato-coloured coats in fleeced boiled wool.
Issa’s show featured archive prints and a wonderful red coat; this Brazilian brand is riding a wave of popularity since Kate Middleton sported one of its wrap dresses at her engagement announcement.
But two small presentations from two Irish designers managed to cross the gender divide and make an impact yesterday.
Zoe Jordan’s chic trouser suits in Savile Row tweeds had a feminine edge while JW Anderson (a trained tailor) fashioned narrow trousers and apron front shirts for women with the same boyish assurance as Margaret Howell has been doing with her languid country tweeds for years.
But at the end of the day, for sheer fun, it was hard to beat Topshop’s Dalmatian collection, all spotted faux fur, dog print silks and spattered blocky heels that will hit the streets running.
