White Torricella Orvieto Classico Secco, Bigi, 1996 (Findlaters, McCabes, Redmonds, Higgins Clonskeagh, Mobhi Stores Glasnevin and other outlets, usually £6.99-£7.59). The most delicious Orvieto encountered in Ireland so far - full and round with an attractive sort of toasted almond quality and a long, assertive finish. Excellent value and versatile: you could drink it as an aperitif, with many first courses or with lightish main dishes such as Marcella's Fricasseed Chicken with Bay Leaves.
Villa del Canlungo Pinot Grigio, Eugenio Collavini, 1996 (Vintage shops, Roches Stores, Superquinn, Vineyard Galway, Fine Wines Limerick and other outlets, £7.99-£8.49). A July Bottle of the Week worth mentioning again because it's such a good example of Pinot Grigio - peachily fruity but with hints of the herbs in Basil Frittata, the Boiled Broad Beans above and so many other light Italian dishes. L'Altro Chardonnay, Pio Cesare, 1995 (McCabes, Bennetts Howth, Foleys Cabinteely, usually about £11.50). Why Chardonnay, you're moaning, when Italy offers so much else? Purely because this one (from a source of superb Barolo, incidentally) is so utterly delicious. Not to mention versatile. It would partner all three recipes above.
RED
Neirano Barbera d'Asti 1995 (Molloys, £5.69). Resist the Chianti reflex! This middleweight also has plenty of bite - well worth trying for a change, especially at this price. Another good match for the Fricasseed Chicken with Bay Leaves . . .
Cappello di Prete Rosso del Salento, Candido, 1994 (newly ar- rived in Findlaters, £7.99; other outlets soon). If you're a fan of Candido's Salice Salentino, reputed to Ireland's favourite Italian wine (not counting some unspeakably nasty big brand junk), you have to try this de luxe version. See Bottle of the Week.
Colpetrone Sagrantino di Montefalco 1993 (Redmonds, McCabes and other outlets, £12.50-£13). Now for the treat of the week, a sumptuously smooth, rich Umbrian red, all dark cherries and chocolate with lingering, earthy undertones. Stylishly meaty.
On The Grapevine
Oz Clarke, the bottle world's best showman, is the wine star at The Great Food & Wine Show which runs in the RDS Simmonscourt from next Thursday lunchtime to Sunday evening. His topics? A handful of hot ones, all to do with food and wine matching (Christmas and spices included). Tickets for the show £7 at the door or £6 if bought in advance from HMV or via the ticket hotline, tel: 01 456 9569; it's another £5 (or £4 if booked in advance) to enter the Celebrity Theatre where Oz performs.