With Isola as inspiration, let's get stuck into Italy. Here are wines I've come across recently, a reminder of how blissfully distinctive Italians can be:
White
Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, San Giorgio, 1998 (Searsons Monkstown, SuperValu Raheny, Cheers-Gibneys Malahide, Wine Centre Kilkenny, Vineyard Galway, Pettitts in south-east and some other outlets, £5.75-£5.95). A light, fresh, tangy white at a knockdown price. Great as an aperitif; lovely with salads or light pasta too.
Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, Garofoli, 1997/8 (selected SuperValus, McCabes Merrion, McHughs Kilbarrack, Cuisine des Vendanges Naas, Pat Fenton Dingle, Lynchs Kenmare and other outlets, £9.50-£9.99). Verdicchio can be so neutral and nondescript that it comes as a pleasurable shock to discover how flavoursome this classy version is. Enticing peach and pear notes, citrussy freshness and great length.
Red
D'Istinto Nero d'Avola Sangiovese, Sicilia, 1997 (soon widely available, about £5.49). New baby of a joint venture involving the Australian giant BRL Hardy and a Sicilian company has traits from both parents - distinctive Italian grapes, upfront Aussie fruit and smoothness. Excellent value.
Cantina Zaccagnani, il vino dal Tralcetto, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 1997 (Searsons Monkstown, Michaels Wines Mt Merrion, McCabes Foxrock, On the Grapevine Dalkey, De Vine Wine Shop Castleknock, Wine Centre Kilkenny, Vineyard Galway, O'Donovans Cork, DeVine Wines Letterkenny, usually £8.95). A mouthful of all those contradictions that make Italy so appealing. Freshness and richness. Lush ripeness and that classic sour cherry bite. Affordability and irresistibility. See Bottle of the Week
Nipozzano Chianti Rufina, Frescobaldi, Riserva 1996 (Wine Cellar Phibsboro, De Vine Wine Shop Castleknock, McCabes Merrion, SuperValu Malahide, Mill Maynooth, Terrys Limerick, Vineyard Galway, Dalys Boyle, Old Stand Mullingar, Galvins Cork and other outlets, usually about £12.50). I've had a weakness for this sensuous Tuscan for ages - and the 1996 feels luxurious and softly enveloping as ever. A sort of wine pashmina?
La Grola, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Allegrini, 1994 (selected Superquinns, £12.99). Continue on the path of seriously good Valpol with this concentrated, mature beauty from top producer Franco Allegrini - a name to reckon with on Isola's list.
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva 1995 (Karwigs Wine Warehouse, £13; also direct from Il Primo, see below). This terrific Tuscan classic in the traditional mould recently turned an ordinary Sunday evening into a wine night to remember - simply because I savoured every single drop. Isola has the 1993.