KARL LAGERFELD, not one to do things by halves, commandeered all 39,000sq m of the Grand Palais, along with a philharmonic orchestra for the Chanel spring/summer 2011 show yesterday, attended by more than 2,000 guests.
Laid out with a black and white replica of a formal French garden, all geometric parterres and fountains, it was a spectacular setting and the city’s beau monde turned out in force for the event.
Originally designed to show the mastery of man over nature, the formal garden setting was a fitting symbol of Lagerfeld’s continuous exacting nurture of the Chanel heritage reworked and refreshed season after season.
The monochrome setting also reflected a monochrome theme, a continuous thread throughout this huge show and indeed throughout the week, with 90 models on the sandy walkways. There was a stellar procession of glitter tweed suits and light wrap coats in pale spring colours, many with feather detail, fringed edging or striped with gold or silver ribbon. Cutout camellia leaf shapes gave an abstract lace pattern to jackets and flaring ballerina dresses making for some beautiful effects especially when black was layered over white. In bold colour, the dreamy camellia printed summer dresses had an oriental air worn with chopine style shoes and black umbrellas fashioned like wide brimmed hats. One male model and his tiny two-year-old son appeared dressed in similar white braided jackets and jeans.
If the essence of French elegance is the balance of romance and restraint, this beautiful collection had it all. The finale of black mousseline dresses and jackets trimmed with black cock feathers was romantic and graceful. And the sight of Lagerfeld taking his bow arm in arm with 53-year-old former model Ines de la Fressange, who will be the face of Chanel for spring, was unforgettable.
Vanessa Bruno is an independent French designer with a growing international reputation who first made her mark with a best-selling tote decorated with a band of sequins.
The jeunesse dorée of Paris love her clothes and her collection was an artful take on street wear trends, the glitter lace, sassy surf print dresses and shorts, sporty mesh tops and denim jackets all worn with flower earrings, boots and an offhand air.