Paul Costelloe's spring/summer collections - and there are three with subtle distinctions - are soft: gone is the heavy tailoring, and in comes the more relaxed look, with some highly feminine details. Costelloe likes women, and, as he says, "men like mysteries." And on this the collections are formed.
The liking means there is a practicality to everything, even those beautiful numbers destined for socialising; and the mystery comes through in mesh and semitransparent tops, embroidered silk, ankle-length shifts and tiny, finely knitted cardigans. It is well-controlled whimsy.
It is the same with colour choices. A great lover of natural and black, he feels grey is being edged out, and a need for bright colours is best served by putting the pinks and lilacs into the small extras rather than the main garment. Hence a whole lot of coloured tops and cardigans.
But one of the best basics is a khaki or moss green, seen in delicately knitted sweaters, and silk/viscose trousers. It is an example of how smart the relaxed look can be.
As usual he's stuck with linen, especially effective in his highly successful men's collection. On using linen, he says it is "something I shall continue until I retire in 25 years". Longevity must be on the cards, as Costelloe started his business in 1979. Silk mixes are his other favourite.
The three women's collections overlap considerably. "The Collection" is perhaps a bit older and more traditional; "occasion" clothes are emphasised. Here there is a superb beige, satin-edged silk and linen mix shift dress worn under a silk coat, neatly cut and short. It is subtle elegance. Add a hat and be the best-dressed guest at any event.
"Dressage", which was originally very country-weekendish, is now more Out Of Africa with plenty of natural linen for easy separates and the essential waxed-linen shower jacket. The third element is for a younger grouping, very feminine, with embroidered silk dresses and dainty cardigans, in delicious lilacs and eau-de-nil colours. But frankly there is so much overlap that the labels are hardly relevant.
Costelloe has managed to soften the trouser suit, adding easy casual options such as wide-legged trousers and tunics, while also offering a dash of sexiness with mystery in a host of satin and devore shifts. Not only does he like women, he also knows what they like. A happy meeting of minds.