There's Always Claret

I've written before about the bizarre nature of Ireland's continuing obsession with Christmas claret

I've written before about the bizarre nature of Ireland's continuing obsession with Christmas claret. Even though it's now a well established fact that red Bordeaux does turkey no favours. Even though the price of most top-notch red Bordeaux is ridiculously high. Even though it's harder to pick a winner for a wine-besotted friend than it is to pick your way through the maelstrom of Grafton Street on Christmas Eve. This year I give up. A few weeks ago, Sylvie Cazes was in Dublin to remind us (in her perfect English, learnt in Cork) of our historic links with Chateau Lynch-Bages. A few wine shop enquiries soon confirmed that this is still Ireland's favourite Bordeaux classed growth by a mile, and even I - wary of the blinkered Lynch-Bages one upmanship of a certain type of Irish drinker - was forced to admit that the 1995 and 1996 tasted with Ms Cazes were pretty damned good. The 1995 is already round and opulent; the 1996 (my favourite) dense and powerful with astonishing length. If you've £70 or so to spend, look quickly and you'll find these Lynch-Bages beauties in leading wine shops around the country. If not, here are nine much humbler alternatives which should still go down a treat. Many are available in a scattering of good wine shops as well as the outlet listed:

Chateau de Pez, Saint-Estephe, 1995 (Searsons, £23.95);

Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis, 1996 (Oddbins, £21.49);

Chateau Landat, HautMedoc, 1995 (Kellys Wine Vault Clontarf, £15.95);

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Chateau de la Cour, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, 1996 (Mitchells Kildare St & Glasthule, £15.50);

Chateau Verdignan, HautMedoc, 1996 (Superquinn, £15.46);

Chateau Tour du Haut Moulin, HautMedoc, 1996 (Wines Direct, £13.50; minimum order six bottles which may be mixed);

Chateau Beaumont, HautMedoc, 1996 (O'Briens Fine Wines, £10.95);

Chateau Patache d'Aux, Medoc, 1996 (Tesco, £10.49);

Chateau Respide, Graves, 1995 (Berry Bros, Harry St, £9.75).