Imagine Kerry at its radiant best. Make its mountains craggier, and with razor sharp peaks. Exaggerate the colours to a myriad of greens, russets, and purples, and ever-changing with the flitting light. Add waterfalls weeping from top to toe. Picture lush, tropical flowers; exotic red tufted birds, a wealth of palm trees, and a maze of rivers with rickety-looking wooden bridges. Paint the waves higher; raise the houses onto stilts. Add glorious sunshine, and you have the North Coast of Kauai.
We spent a week at the Hanalei Bay resort: a series of three storey buildings, each with an unimpeded sea or garden view. A Kauai law states that no building can be higher than a palm tree; and the Hanalei locals have only allowed three hotels, ensuring that the area is residential with low key tourism.
The Americans kept themselves busy making their rounds with helicopter trips, sunset boating tours, golf, tennis coaching, horse riding to visit waterfalls, deep sea fishing and kayaking down rivers. We had already spent a week on Kauai's sister island, Maui, where we had watched the sun slowly appearing over the rim of what is said to be the largest dormant volcano in the world - it was like a vision of heaven. We had explored the areas of rain forest, and had the swim of a lifetime in magical natural pools at the base of waterfalls.
On Kauai, we were content to explore the spectacular beaches, each one with its own distinct character. Kee beach has sheer emerald cliffs rising up from the sand, and an area where the reef creates a haven for swimmers and snorkellers. Hanalei Bay curves from a cliff in a long half moon of magnificent surf, before tapering to rocks. Many beaches can be dangerous, particularly in winter. In 1965 Frank Sinatra almost drowned off Wailu Beach, while trying to rescue his director's wife during filming of None but the Brave. Radio stations broadcast regular surf reports, advising on the best waves of the day.
Expert surfers paddle out to sea, to ride "the best surfing waves in the world", in the company of ancient turtles, and pacific fish. We rented boogie boards and body boarded the powerful inshore waves. I spent an exhilarating morning wind-surfing on Anini beach, under the tutelage of Celeste, a bouncy extrovert who teaches in the safety of a lagoon.
Surrounded by a coral reef, with the trade winds steady and the sun beating down as my board screamed across the bay, I wanted the three hours to last forever.
Kauai is a film location manager's dream: since South Pacific was filmed there in 1958, "The Garden Island" has been featured in Jurassic Park, Raiders of the Lost ark, Outbreak, The Thorn Birds, and dozens of surfing and Hawaiian movies. And no wonder, when every mile unfolds new delights. You are reminded of Australia, Africa, Vietnam and India. The showers that sweep through the North Shore make the coast sparkle, and shimmering rainbows are as much photographed as the sunsets.
The people of Kauai are beautiful too. Slim, and healthy with shining smiles, and glowing complexions, they radiate happiness. There is a great sense of "real life" taking place. One Sunday, after an afternoon's surfing, a group of families was playing "fling the horseshoe", as they waited for their food to barbecue. Old men sat gazing out to sea, whilst dogs romped in the sand and horses, tethered by a rope stood in waist high grass.
The day on Kauai begins early, with huge American breakfasts served everywhere. Picnic lunches are the norm, and most of the beaches have tables, along with the discreet wooden "comfort stations", and showers nestled amongst the trees. Cocktail time starts at four. With names like "Wai Tai", and "Wicked Wahine", (woman,) they are composed of white and black rum, various liqueurs, and a blend of exotic fruit juices. Served long, on ice, the ambrosial mixtures taste deceptively innocent.
The restaurants are informal and the huge choice of cuisine reflects the multiracial population. In the best places, fresh fish is always served, (fish with names like ono, mahi mahi, and ahi) cooked to order, with a choice of sauces; usually rice, and an interesting choice of vegetables. The best restaurant we visited was attached to our hotel. Like the bar, where we spent many happy hours, the Bali Hai is open to the air, and overlooks the pool, which meanders through the tropical gardens.
The guide books advise you to eat at sunset, and the view of the descending sun turning the mountains purple and gold over Hanalei Bay is spectacular, but although we soon relaxed into early nights, we could never have eaten at six! Instead, we'd enjoy an early "Mai tai", before relaxing in the salt water jacuzzi. We have never felt so physically and mentally well as in Hawaii. Although it rains there is no humidity, and the air is as clear as the sea. On our final day, it rained. There had been short, refreshing showers all week, but the grey skies looked ominous, so we headed south to Poipu beach. We found the bay swarming with snorkellers. "Baywatch Babes" posed in front of gentle waves. It felt like the riviera. We didn't want to leave. Indeed, some people never do! One couple spent their honeymoon here, and couldn't bear to go home. They had no money, so they pitched a tent. Now they have four children, a large house, a thriving business - Zeto's Beach House - in Hanalei, and a mother living nearby. We gazed longingly at the windows of real estate, offices, but sense prevailed.
We ate our final salad in Brennecke's Beach Broiler, overlooking Poipu beach, had a last swim, showered, and dragged ourselves to the airport for the journey home.