Waiting tough at an altitude that weakens the body daily

Everest Diary: The waiting seems endless. Waiting for a window in the weather that will allow us to push for the summit.

Everest Diary: The waiting seems endless. Waiting for a window in the weather that will allow us to push for the summit.

We've been back at base camp for over two weeks, but the forecast is for high winds until at least the 27th so there's been no point heading back up the mountain until now.

But, finally, we're on the move again. Our Sherpas went up to advanced base camp (ABC) last Friday and the first of the Himalayan Experience (Himex) climbers started the 22-kilometre trek on Sunday.

More followed yesterday and the final bunch leave this morning.

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But even when we're settled back up at 6,400 metres, it's not the end of the waiting. The forecast only goes as far as the 27th and there's nothing to suggest the winds will drop after that.

Himex leader Russell Brice has even talked of extending the expedition if necessary. He's nervous that there may be no break in the weather before the monsoons come. There have been years when there have been no summits on the north side of Everest.

But we're trying to remain optimistic. We're going up to ABC now so that, if we need to, we can make a dash for the summit in whatever narrow window the weather gods decide to offer us.

Whatever happens, we won't be taking unnecessary risks. There have been two deaths on the south side already this season, even before anyone had tried to make an attempt on the summit.

But even staying healthy is a struggle in this alien environment. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) lurks in the wings, waiting to strike down the fittest and healthiest. It can affect the lungs, causing pulmonary oedema, or the brain in the form of cerebral oedema. Several teams have already had to evacuate climbers with AMS.

Thankfully, the two Himex members who had symptoms of pulmonary oedema recovered after evacuation to base camp and are now back up the mountain.

But nobody has completely escaped the effects of living at altitude. Even at base camp - 5,200 metres - we're existing in an unnatural environment.

Everybody experienced headaches and stomach upsets. Once those symptoms had cleared, our bodies had to undergo another battering as we moved up to ABC at 6,400 metres.

Suddenly, base camp seemed like a distant haven. The high altitude cough that had affected only a handful of people lower down the mountain, swept through camp like an epidemic, even though its cause is the dry air at altitude and not a virus.

The higher we went, the more hacking the coughs got. And, after two weeks up at ABC and higher, the coughs became entrenched.

Recovery was promised at base camp. But, as we head back up, ribs are still sore. Intercostal muscles are still complaining. Throats are still like sandpaper. Exertion, a sudden change of temperature, even a joke will produce a barrage of coughing from the assembled company.

Expedition doctor Terry O'Connor has put the hackers on codeine at night to try and suppress the cough reflex. Steam treatments have also been prescribed. Nasal sprays. Cough lozenges. Pills and potions. You name it, I've tried it. But, despite treatment of every kind, I'm still coughing.

So, like at least half the Himex team, I'm going back up to ABC with a cough that's going to get worse, particularly when we go on to oxygen.

Some teams headed back up a week ago, preparing for their assault on the summit, but the Norwegian team Sherpas, fixing ropes to above the First Step on Saturday, returned with frostbite. So we will go back to our waiting game. And hope we don't have to wait too long at an altitude where our bodies are weakening daily.

Donations, in aid of the Irish Hospice Foundation and the Friends of St Luke's Hospital, can be made to The Grania Willis Everest Challenge, Permanent TSB, Blackrock, Co Dublin, account number 86877341, sort code 99-06-44. Visa card donations to 01-2303009.