Now that we're into the first lap of the crazy Christmas race, it's time to start thinking about special bottles to give as presents or to jolly-up the turkey. Two visiting Australians with a growing reputation for wines of super quality - wines with personalities as distinctive as their own - may provide some inspiration. Not just about what to buy, but about the bigger year-round issue of how to knock more enjoyment out of life. Read on.
"I keep telling my kids: you have to put more of the f-word in your life. . . and before you start getting smart, it only has three letters, F-U-N," chortles Denis Horgan of Leeuwin Estate in Western Australia. A big, beefy man with a ruddy complexion and shrewd eyes, he looks like an Irish cattle farmer - and that, in effect, is what he is. The great-grandson of an emigrant from Macroom in Co Cork, Horgan has been brilliantly successful at cattle farming and other ventures, with the focus latterly shifting to Leeuwin, his award-laden winery. Not bad going for a chap who left school at 14.
How did it all come about? Back in 1973 California's top winemaker Robert Mondavi arrived in Margaret River - Western Australia's brand new wine region - to hunt out the best bit of land for a group of venture capitalists. He called Denis Horgan - well known, presumably, as a local mover and shaker. "I had no idea who Robert Mondavi was but I invited him over for a drink anyway," Horgan explains. The result was that Mondavi identified the prime land which was to become the Leeuwin Estate and acted as Horgan's mentor in an enterprise he'd never dreamt of. "I knew nothing about wine," he admits. "That was probably the best thing I had going for me, or I'd have said it couldn't be done."
It could, of course. He hands out meteorological charts to show how close the climate comes to Bordeaux, with a bit more sun. But what shines through most forcibly is the level of Horgan's determination to succeed. This, remember, is the man who signed up for a golf safari to Ireland - and then had to take lessons to learn a game he'd never played. He shrugs and grins his amiable, can-do grin. "I still managed to win the tournament!" I bet that's why his wines are some of the finest I've ever tasted from Australia. He may be famous for his classy marketing - labels painted by distinguished artists (a la Mouton Rothschild), massive annual outdoor concerts with guests from all over the world (a la Mondavi) - but in the end it's the liquid in the bottles that counts, and his is stunning. More details below.
Also here to remind us that it's possible to produce seriously good wines without getting bogged down in seriousness was Geoff Merrill - the fellow with the jumbo-sized handlebar moustache and long hair who's known as the wild man of Australian wine. "I'm actually very serious about making good wine. But. . ." But what? "My philosophy is to have plenty of fun when the hard work's done." Laddish Merrill is a regular visitor to Ireland, where he enjoys golf and late-night Guinness-inspired jollity with the wine trade.
It's ten years now since he gave up his role as a wandering winemaker to take over the old Mount Hurtle winery in McLaren Vale - almost in Adelaide's suburbs - in partnership with Alistair Purbrick of Chateau Tahbilk. Or at least to limit his flying winemaking to one consultancy which involves making Italian wines for Sainsbury. "I took it on in 1993, the year of my 40th birthday, and I think I was probably just menopausal," Merrill explains. "I thought it would be nice to take the family to live in Italy for a couple of months every year."
But back to the main event, his Australian output. While he has had considerable commercial success with his Owens Estate and Mount Hurtle ranges, his most exciting wines are the more expensive bottlings under the Geoff Merrill label. These are premium wines, made for cellaring if you can bear to keep your hands off them, but released after a substantial period of ageing in bottle in case you can't.
"In Australia the pendulum has swung away from Dolly Partonstyle Chardonnays and over-extracted reds to far more delicate, more elegant wines," he says. His own Chardonnay and Cabernet, along with the lipsmacking Bush Vine Grenache and Shiraz that are due to reach Ireland in the new year, have been among the pioneers of a welcome trend. Now there's something to ponder. Geoff Merrill, the wild man - a pillar of restraint.
Bargain of week?
If, instead of upmarket bottles, all you want to read about is a knockout bargain red to beat the winter blues, try Tsantali Nemea 1994 (Dunnes Stores, £4.49). This Greek charmer has the kind of baked fruit cake richness you might associate with Amarone. . . at a quarter of the price.
Wine log
Sunday, December 6th, 2 p.m.8 p.m.: Headfort School, Kells, Co Meath, turns 50 with a Christmas Celebration of Food and Wine. Gourmet stalls, cookery demonstrations, wine tastings. . . and the launch of the Headfort Collection - four Burgundies imported directly - so keenly priced - under the Louis Max label. Even if you can't attend the fair (entry £5, families £10, including mulled wine and Christmas cake), the wines can be ordered by the case. Tel: Michael Bolton, 046 40065, or www.http://homepage.tinet.ie / headfort
Local bubbles
New from Bubble Brothers, the effervescent Cork duo sourcing interesting champagnes from small growers at decent prices. . . a swanky gift idea. Beara Bubbles is a mixed 12-bottle case of champagnes (including four 1990s), with labels and collars specially designed by a dozen west Cork artists. £400 plus VAT, and buyers of the first 500 cases also get a limited edition of the original label prints. For details of this and other sparkling new goodies, plus the most colourful list in Ireland, Tel: 021 552252. Email: bubblebrotherstinet.ie
Vintage bubbles
Woodford Bourne has secured Ireland's 300-bottle allocation of Bollinger RD 1985. RD (recently disgorged) is an exquisite Bollinger speciality - a vintage champagne matured for an exceptionally long period but still remarkably fresh since the yeast sediment was only removed (the process of disgorgement) a short time ago. Around £75 a bottle from specialist wine merchants. Drink up within a year of the date on the back.
Braintwister bubbles
New to Ireland and perfect for wine buffs' Christmas guessing games. . . Nyetimber Premiere Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 1992, the English sparkling wine which was a trophy and gold medal winner in last year's International Wine Challenge. More reports when I've tasted it, but reputedly biscuity and champagne-like, it sounds impressive. First retailer is Grapes of Mirth, Rathmines, expected price £27£28. . . More information from Kevin Parsons, tel: 021 373237.