In the distant past, when winter came to these islands, the gentry would, it is said, often flee the winds, rain and frosts to spend time in the bland climate of the South of France, especially in Monte Carlo, Nice and Cannes. The fashionable end of the Mediterranean. Now, coincidence, a friend writes to say he is just back from the Pyrenees Orientales, the Eastern Pyrenees, the Department at the other end of the Mediterranean coast and "I know now why you like it", for it has been mentioned here more than a few times. At the same time comes a magazine Geo, which is published in French or German, which makes the point that an ideal place for a holiday at every season is this same area, sometimes called Catalan France, for the language is still alive there and the territory in the past often changed hands between France and Spain. You may find yourself conversing with a shopkeeper and he will say: "You speak French well, for a foreigner, but I don't think you're English." You tell him you are Irish and for the next half hour you are commiserated with, congratulate, while the history of the Irish and the Catalans are compared and some comparisons drawn. History is all around in the castles and churches changing hands, the fluctuations of war and so on. They still dance the Sardana there, and there are elements of the Catalan in their cuisine. In 1905 Matisse came upon the small seaside town of Collioure and summoned his friend and fellow painter Derain. So, in this area of light and colour, the Fauvism school was born. Collioure is, in summer, stiff with visitors, especially on Sunday, the Fair Day. The walls of its bayside church glow with a warm, rosy light. The church tower used to be a lighthouse. But seaside and mountains - the foothills of the Pyrenees, fight for your time. There are long strands and rocky coves. The famous Little Yellow Train you can take up into glorious alpine territory, a circuit of 63 kilometres, which you can break here and there. Monasteries and churches and castles are many, and every one worth a visit. Every hill and tree speaks to you. The blending of France and Catalonia, of mountains and forests, of sand and rocks, and vineyards. (Languedoc wine is good, and the sweet dessert wine of Givesaltes excellent.) But just for the countryside, the people, the ambiance you'll want to go back and back.