The elderflower, just coming out now, is lovely. The smell is of muscat, say some food writers. And this from a plant or bush which is associated with a sprawling growth around ruined cottages, a bush that has a folklore reputation in more than one country, the reputation of association with witchcraft. It is mostly seen in this straggling form, but can make a good hedge plant and even grow into a tree in the right place. Useful in minor ways, apart from its culinary and winemaking virtues - you can easily remove the pith from a new shoot and make a flute of sorts. Or a peashooter if you are of that age.
But that wonderfully photographed and carefully written book Wild Food by Roger Phillips, gives a number of tempting recipes for using the flower itself and, of course, the berries, later, for elderberry wine, jelly, pickle and syrup. For the present, let us stay with the flower itself. In England it was the custom to beat the blossoms in to the mixture when you were making muffins - thus helping the texture and giving a fragrance to them. You often come across the advice not to wash the blossoms. Just shake the insects out and slide the actual blossoms off the stalk with a fork.
Elderflower fritters are a thought, if you are still eating bacon and egg meals. Simple: you take four ounces of flour, one beaten egg, a quarter pint of tepid water, a pinch of salt and some unwashed, says the recipe, elder flowerheads. Make the batter and, holding the flowerheads by the stalk, dip them into the batter. Fry with your bacon, etc. Adds a lot to the old formula. Or, for other occasions, you can deep fry them in very hot oil or fat until golden brown, drain, trim unwanted stalk and serve hot, sprinkled with sugar. Then our author gives the recipe for elderflower champagne, elderflower wine or frontignac, the latter being a muscat wine. Also elderflower water ice, lemonade and even an elderflower champagne. "I advise everyone to make this fragrant champagne" writes Phillips. His book is published by Macmillan, £13.99 sterling.
Nicholas Culpeper, the 17th century "astrologer-physician" gives concoctions from other parts of the elder for shifting phlegm and other prescriptions. Jane Grigson tells us how well the flowers go with gooseberries, in jellies, for example. All very far from witchcraft.