Mycology - continued from last week, and starting with an apology: the expert was a she, not a he. And here takes up again her campaign on how not to poison yourself and your guests. According to that manual quoted last week, the guide as to recognising, gathering up and cooking mushrooms, the toxicity of a fungus depends on the metabolism of the creature that eats it. For example, herbivores are sensitive to the same poisons as man or other carnivores, but display less extreme symptoms. Geography, too, plays a part, writes our correspondent: for certain fungi, eaten widely in the east of France, act as powerful laxatives when picked in the Paris region.
You have to keep your wits about you in all this (or decide that fungi are best left alone). Several fungi, including some types of morel, though considered a delicacy when cooked, are toxic in their uncooked state. Others can bring on allergies when eaten in large quantities. More, such as the ink cap or lawyer's wig (coprinus comatus), the one which begins in somewhat phallic form, then opens and sheds black juices until the whole collapses in a pool of ink, is to be "eaten with caution". It's comparatively common in Ireland and is common just now in cool shady ground. Not very tasty. A friend picks it and stews it in milk for breakfast. It should, according to a big tome on fungi written by two Italians, be eaten with caution: which they interpret as being only when young and consumed as soon as collected.
No alcohol should be taken before or with, for that may bring on palpitations of the heart, perspiration, chilled limbs and other symptoms of illness which, the authors assure us, will nevertheless soon disappear without consequence. And, writes our own mycologist, beware of mushroom guides. (For God's sake, where do we turn?) Fungi which they deem edible are not necessary palatable, but may be tough, sour, bitter or peppery. But our friend is an optimist. She ends: "But once you have navigated your way through this minefield, what could be nicer than a forest omelette - stuffed with your collection of mushrooms, sauteed in butter with shallots, garlic and smoked bacon. Well cooked, rhind, and no alcohol."
Or be a coward and stick to the familiar field mushroom if you are gathering yourself, or trust the greengrocer and the restaurant chef. Otherwise, lay off.