NEWTON'S OPTIC: A new guidebook provides unexpected insights into Belfast's history and culture, writes Newton Emerson.
BELFAST (POPULATION: five million) is the capital of the former British colony of Northern Ireland. Once known only for bombs and barricades, today it is a bustling commercial and cultural centre where the benefits of peace and prosperity are clearly obvious on its official website.
Readers can be certain of a warm welcome in a city where uniformly-dressed young Englishmen are something of a novelty. If you do encounter any resentment, simply explain that you spoke out regularly against imperialism while at Cambridge and the locals will immediately buy you a pint of their famous Bushmills Guinness.
Belfast is divided into quarters, sectors, Protestants and Catholics, by a network of medieval peace walls constructed by King William of Boyne. Mural buses drive along the walls and black taxis drive through the walls. Black taxis charge on a sliding scale according to the driver's mood and body odour.
Dominating the downtown skyline with its great glass dome, Stormont City Hall was built by Catholic slaves during the potato plantation. It is now the seat of Belfast's power-sharing council, where Protestants and Catholics work together to overcome the legacy of imperialism. Join the crowds every morning to see Mayor Gerry Adams arrive on his bicycle but do not applaud in case you look like a tourist.
Other landmark buildings in the city centre include Queen's University, Victoria Square, Windsor House, the Crown Bar and the Empire Music Hall. Ask locals for the Irish-language version of all these names to avoid giving offence. Also worth seeing is Belfast Lough, where the Titanic sank in 1912. Two of its huge funnels, known locally as Samson and Goliath, are still visible above the water.
Separated from the rest of the city by the river Foyle, West Bank Belfast is home to the famous Shankill Falls, whose foaming waters carved out the Giant's Causeway. West Bank Belfast is also famous for its Sinn Féin festival or "féile" (pronounced "failure"). Other notable events include the July 12th gay pride parades and the MI5 Marty Grass. Looming high above the whole city is the imposing Hill Cave, where the Irish Red Army hid from nationalist attack after the Long Civil Rights March.
Eating out in Belfast is real pleasure with plenty of trendy cafes and restaurants to choose from. However, do not ask for food after 2.30pm or a scone from the counter if it has already been wrapped in cellophane as this is considered extremely rude in the local culture. Vegetarians should ask for chicken unless they are particularly interested in the hunger strikes.
Belfast really comes alive at night as everyone heads out to hear traditional Irish dance music and enjoy "the coke". Evenings generally end with the celebrated running of the riot.
Finally, check out local listings for alternative comedy, experimental theatre, independent bookshops and all the other things guidebooks mention to imply that backpacking is more than package tourism for public schoolboys. If you find any in Belfast, do please let us know.
"Dominating the downtown skyline, Stormont City Hall was built by Catholic slaves during the potato plantation