Sipping in the sunshine

If you're citybound, places to sit and sip a cooling glass of wine at lunch or after work this summer are at a premium. Our round-up of open-air watering holes will mean you can make the most of the good weather - when we get it

A few fine days and Dublin is turning itself inside out, spilling its eateries on to terraces and pavements, as if it were Boston or Barcelona. Supposing the miracle happens again, and we're granted a few more days (or even hours) of perfect weather, where can citybound souls enjoy a cool, summery bottle of white wine over lunch or dinner and catch a few rays at the same time?

With the hip Charlotte Quay apartments towering behind and an expanse of water shimmering in front, Ocean's wharf is like a little slice of Sydney Harbour, minus the ferries. Soaking up the sun from noon through to mid-evening (when the gas heaters take over), this long, stone terrace is the city centre's most idyllic spot for al fresco sipping. You'd never believe the Pearse Street traffic is only 100 metres away. Wines by the glass are unexciting; better to choose a bottle. Try: Chateau de la Colline Bergerac Sec 1998 (£20) or Ca dei Frati Lugana 1999 (£22). Charlotte Quay Dock, 01-6688862.

The Harbourmaster Bar is another dockside spot with a certain amount of outdoor space. There are metal tables and chairs for 25-30 customers, mainly on the narrow timber deck that runs from the conservatory to the back of the bar. Depending on where you sit, you should see the sun against a backdrop of harbour basin, river or fountain. The wine list has lots of irritating little errors, but some good bottles. Try: the house white, Castillo de Molina Sauvignon Blanc 1999 (£15) or Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, 1999 (£24.50) IFSC, 016701688.

With the food market in full swing only inches away, Saturday lunch is the buzziest time on Eden's slim terrace, which stretches the full length of the restaurant - one of the first Dublin eateries to have an al fresco area with a smart continental look (and again, those crucial gas heaters). Outside-diners have a front-row view of summer evening events in the square. The well-thought-out wine list is studded with good buys. Try: Wynns Coonawarra Riesling 1999 (£20) or Marc Bredif Vouvray 1997/8 (£25). Meeting House Square, 01-6705372.

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Because there are just nine small tables out in front of downtown Fitzers, anybody who's lucky enough to nab one on a hot day feels pretty smug. This is a real see-and-be-seen place; boring lunch or dinner-dates may find themselves eclipsed by glamorous passers-by. An OK wine selection - but keep an eye on vintages. Some of the white wines listed aren't as young or fresh as they might be. Try: Chateau Haut Rian Bordeaux 1998 (£15.65) or Domaine de l'Hortus Vin de Pays du Val de Montferrand 1998/9 (£19.15) 51 Dawson Street, 01-6771155.

Open a mere 10 weeks, Fado restaurant in the green, villa-like extension of the Mansion House has half-a-dozen teak tables and burnt orange umbrellas on its sunny verandah, overlooking the fountain and well-tended garden. A real effort has been made with the wine list, which is nicely varied and arranged by grape-variety with a few illuminating words on the style of each. Try: Stoneleigh Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marl- borough, 1999 (£17.40) or Piper's Brook Riesling, Tasmania, 1998 (£23.30) Mansion House, Dawson Street, tel: 01-6767200.

From the redesign process at the end of last year, L'Ecrivain's first-floor sun-trap has emerged bigger and prettier than before. It can now take eight tables with umbrellas, and is in high demand on fine days; some lunchers are known to linger almost until dinner-time. An excellent wine list, as noted already in this column. Try: Chateau Tour de Mirambeau Bordeaux 1998 (£18) or Hugel Alsace Pinot Blanc 1997 (£20) 109a Lower Baggot Street, tel: 01-6611919.

So cosy is Dobbins's interior that even people who've been there often forget how well this restaurant adapts to warm weather. Aha, you're thinking - there's that conservatory, right at the end - bright, airy and delightful when the roof slides back. Indeed. But only regulars know there's also a pretty little flower-strewn garden beyond that, with wrought-iron tables. And no shortage of wine inspiration. Try: Viu Manent Fume Blanc Reserve 1998/9 (£4.25 a glass, £19 a bottle, see Bottle of the Week) or Lugana San Benedetto, Zenato, 1998 (£17). 15 Stephen's Lane, 01-6764679.

The clever planners who hire The Commons for summer corporate events know how much people enjoy aperitifs served on the spacious, flagged terrace at the back - one of the hidden gardens of the Green. But lunch patrons can also eat out here; five or six tables are set up on warm days. The wine list, livened-up substantially last year, features some affordable possibilities by the glass. Try: Paarl Heights Chenin Blanc 1999 or Chateau Bertinerie Premieres Cotes de Blaye 1998 (both £3.50 a glass) 86 St Stephen's Green, 01-4752597.

The Garden Terrace at the Merrion, just beyond the drawing room, one step up from the Jim Reynolds-designed gardens, offers about 20 people the option of eating and drinking out of doors until 7 p.m. The glorious treat of Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee (£25 a glass) awaits anybody who's feeling extravagant. Otherwise, there's a selection of three wines at £6£7.50 a glass and 20 at £4 - although on a recent visit, some of the whites tasted a touch old and tired. Try: Wellington Sauvignon Blanc 1999 or Pinot Grigio, Alois Lageder, 1998 (both £4 a glass) Upper Merrion Street, tel: 01-6030600.


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