Matt Spirosays that the players are doing their best, but the organisers are doing their worst

The first week of the African Cup of Nations has lived up to the hype, serving up arguably more drama and excitement than was witnessed during the entire World Cup in Germany.

Games have often been high-scoring, nail-biting affairs and of the 37 goals scored in 10 encounters many have been exquisite. Sulley Muntari's last-minute strike for the hosts, Ghana, against Guinea would grace any goal-of-the-tournament competition, as would Egypt's breath-taking counterattack finished off by Mohamed Zidan against Cameroon.

Streets have been transformed into places of celebration, with children dancing, music blaring and everybody enthusing about their beloved national team, the Black Stars.

Thanks to the presence of so many fine players and the unbridled passion for soccer in West Africa, this is a fantastic tournament.

But it should be even better. The astonishing ineptitude of the African Football Federation (CAF) and the Local Organising Committee (LOC) is unworthy of such an event and continues to cast a shadow over proceedings.

Everybody travelling to the tournament expected accommodation difficulties, given the warnings of hoteliers tripling prices, but few envisaged the Ghanaian team would be victims. They had reserved rooms at the luxurious Labadi Beach Hotel in Accra, only to discover on arrival their booking had been cancelled and offered to their Group A rivals Morocco, who were willing to pay more.

The Black Stars have since moved to the more central Fiesta Royale, where they are hounded by fans night and day.

"People tell me the hosts usually have a big advantage at the Nations Cup," Ghana coach Claude Leroy mused this week. "In Ghana, it's the opposite."

Leroy is furious his team must play their group games on the worst pitch in the tournament. The surface at the Ohene Djan stadium is full of holes, covered only by the ridiculously long grass that organisers reportedly forgot to cut before the opening match.

Some damage was done by hundreds of volunteers rehearsing the opening ceremony on the pitch in the preceding days.

The ceremony, incidentally, was a wonderfully choreographed display of Africa's rich cultural diversity; it was an unmitigated success - or so it seemed, until information was leaked that a firework display had been cancelled at the last moment once organisers realised it would still be light.

Before the second game in Accra, the pitch was heavily watered. Players subsequently found themselves hopping over puddles, and sponges were brought on a half-time to soak up standing water.

Europeans are often accused of lacking understanding when they criticise logistical issues in Africa, but Leroy cannot be pigeon-holed so easily. The Frenchman has worked in Africa for 22 years, so when he labels the Accra pitch "the worst I have ever seen" it is really saying something.

Nigeria's German coach Berti Vogts is experiencing his first African adventure and was clearly shocked by the chaos of a post-match press conference, walking out after two minutes.

"It is extremely appalling to see journalists fighting among themselves," Vogts told Ghana's Graphic Sports in Friday's front-page story, headlined: "LOC under fire".

Squabbling has become part of the daily routine for media. Last Saturday, obtaining accreditation involved hours of pushing and shoving inside a tiny, packed-out room. The CAF media officer responsible for issuing the passes arrived three hours late, organisation was non-existent and several journalists had wallets stolen in the mayhem.

Even with an accreditation, getting into the press stand is far from simple. In Sekondi, there are 60 seats to accommodate several hundred journalists and most are occupied hours before kick-off by bogus photographers.

Interviewing players in the mixed zone after the game is fraught with risk: one French radio reporter was mugged at knife-point on his way there.

It is important to stress that the vast majority of people in Ghana have been refreshingly friendly and the nation, which is usually very safe, fantastically welcoming. Unfortunately, the tournament has attracted its share of opportunist thieves and security is lacking.

In the northern venue of Tamale, the fans were victims after only 10,000 tickets were issued for stadium that seats twice that number. Nobody was allowed in until 30 minutes before kick-off, and even then organisers refused to open the main gates, prompting an almighty scramble through narrow turnstiles that led to a dangerous crush.

Players have also encountered difficulties. Egypt's evening flight from Accra to Kumasi ahead of their first game was cancelled and rescheduled for the following morning.

When they returned to the airport, they were informed the plane had left carrying their opponents, Cameroon. It did not return until the following day, and the Pharaohs, having spent hours trying to find another hotel in Accra, jetted in on the morning of the match.

Despite those mishaps, the defending champions managed to turn in the best performance witnessed so far, disposing of the Indomitable Lions 4-2. For the moment, the players are doing Africa proud. The same cannot be said of the organisers.