Many of you will be familiar with the pleasures of golf in Portugal, most probably with the bigname courses in the country's most popular destination, the Algarve, such as Penina, Vilamoura and Quinta do Lago. Can't beat it. Or can you?
Recently we had the great fortune to spend several days wandering the fairways of one of the country's less heralded regions, the Costa Azul, the large peninsula immediately south of Lisbon. It was an eye-opener.
Our first port of call (literally, for you must take a short ferry trip from Setubal, Portugal's third-largest city, to get there) was Troia, perched on a thin peninsula at the southern end of the Azul.
It has been described as Portugal's most difficult course, and more recently has been regularly likened to Kiawah Island, for there is no rough to speak of; it is built in the dunes, so if you're not in the fairway, you're in sand.
Troia (par 72, 6,337 metres) was designed by no less a figure than Robert Trent Jones and opened in 1982. As an indication of its quality, it was permitted to hold the Portuguese Open the next year. How did the pros fare on this infant design? The winner, Sam Torrance, was the only player to break par for the week. Consequently, the Open has not returned: the European Tour does not take kindly to its boys being made fools of.
But don't be put off: it's a tough challenge, but a fair and delightful one. (Would you turn down a chance to play Augusta just because it will tear you apart?) The Trent Jones signature can be seen on the greens, which are small, shallow, undulating and always well protected. But even for a high handicapper it's great fun. You won't lose many balls (you'll find them in the sand), and your good shots will be rewarded. That said, it must be hell when the wind gets up.
The front nine takes you along the shore, with its fine views of the Arrabida mountains, while most of the back nine nestles in tall pine. The 19th hole nestles in those same pines and in a small but elegant clubhouse, with full facilities.
Next on our itinerary was a trip north to Aroeira, an ambitious course cum resort 20 minutes south of Lisbon, across the handsome River Tagus. I say ambitious because Aroeira is in the midst of transforming itself from a single course to a hotel/private housing complex with two courses - and a swimming pool which would do justice to Cecil B de Mille. The development, when it's finished, would not be out of place in Florida.
I took a particular liking to this place, not least because of its lovely setting among the tall, thin trees and its outrageously comfortable, classically designed clubhouse - which, incredibly, they're planning to knock down when the hotel is complete. Get there within the next year to be sure of enjoying one of the most relaxing of post-round drinks and meal.
It goes without saying (so here goes) that Aroeira (par 72, 6,040 metres), like all three courses we played, is immaculately presented. One English writer christened it the "Wentworth of Lisbon". Unlike that noble course, one notable feature is that the designer, Frank Pennick, put in no fairway bunkers.
Like Troia, the fairways are tight and the greens small, but even if you drive into the trees which line every hole, you should find the ball and be able to play it back onto the fairway. (Another reason I like the course: I played a superb second from the trees on the sixth for par, went down the grip of a three-iron, put the ball back in the stance and punched it 120 yards low through a narrow gap and onto the green. That's as good as a birdie for the likes of me.)
Our final destination, Quinta do Peru, is, according to Sean Skehan, of Killester Travel, who has specialised in golfing holidays for 25 years, the "best all-round test for holiday golfers in the world. There's no real rough, so you won't lose your ball, but the greens are immaculate and well bunkered, so, no matter how good you are, you're presented with a real test."
Designed by the brilliantly named Rocky Roquemore, Peru (par 72, 6,308 metres) manages, as Sean suggests, the remarkable feat of presenting simultaneously an entertaining challenge to the three-handicapper without breaking the hearts of us mortals. There's enough water to keep you on your toes, but if you're on your game you'll score.
Peru, too, has a fine clubhouse offering grand vistas of the Arrabida mountains from the drinks veranda.
(Fun facts to know and share: peru is Portuguese for turkey. So there are two countries in the world called Turkey.)
Of course, one of the great attractions of playing golf in this magnificent but (comparatively) unpopular region is that it is easy to get on to the course and the fees are reasonable. If you were to walk in off the street (and you can), the three courses we played would charge 8-9,000 escudos (£30-£35 - remember, the condition of these courses is superb). If you're on one of Sean's package deals, the cost comes down to just £20. Killester Travel have places available for a trip in a fortnight's time.
We were based in Sesimbre, a delightful, village/town on the southern coast of the Azul. It's within 30 minutes of all three courses and Lisbon, and manages to provide the visitor with all the trappings of a holiday - plenty of fine accommodation, innumerable small restaurants, reasonable nightlife - while retaining its identity as a working fishing community.
All in all, a magnificent golfing break.
