In a red-bricked building nestled in downtown Atlanta, men are dressed in suits and hats, while women wear heels and dresses. Notes from an organ reverberate around the room, while a crowd of people dance and sing, following along with the lyrics displayed on the screens in front of them.
This is no karaoke party, however, but rather the Sunday service at the Ebenezer Baptist Church in Atlanta, Georgia.
Founded in 1866, the church is known as the spiritual home of Dr Martin Luther King jnr, with three generations of his family having been behind the pulpit. King’s funeral was held here following his assassination in 1968, as was the 2020 funeral of civil rights activist and politician John Lewis.
But for an entity so steeped in history, it has undeniably transformed into a modern-day, 21st-century church.
There are speakers and lights everywhere, three big screens, and invitations to make donations via text, QR code or the church’s website. Services are livestreamed, with recordings shared on social media platforms.
As the crowd gathers, ushers stand near the entrance in grey suits, welcoming people new and familiar. “Sit wherever you want, there’s not a bad seat in the house,” says one of the ushers with a splash of customary southern hospitality.
Those arriving at the service who appear unknown to the community are asked to sign in at the visitors’ office. Here, they are given a black tote bag, with the church’s logo printed on the front. Inside is a note on how to donate.
“We have people here today from France, Ireland, Germany and Hawaii,” it is announced during the service. The congregation applauds.
Natasha Czaronet is visiting from Germany with her family. They included the service on their holiday agenda because “we like the gospels and we don’t have this sort of thing in Germany”.
“It’s more of a party than in Germany. In Germany you have to be very quiet. We really enjoyed it. It’s so easy for people to come together. Martin Luther King jnr is another reason why we wanted to see it. His connection to this church,” she says.
As the service takes place, the camera cuts from time to time to the congregation. The hands of two worshippers are seen clasped together tightly as they pray in unison. In another moment a woman is singing along to a hymn with her eyes closed; tears stream down her cheeks as she raises a hand to the sky.
Despite the modernisation, many things about the church remain the same as during King’s time. The National Park Service acts as steward of the church, preserving and protecting the building and the artefacts within it.
In 2010 a full restoration was completed, which the Martin Luther King Jr visitor centre said brought it “back to its period of significance between 1960 and 1968, when Dr King was co-pastor”.
Mostly, however, it is the teachings that have remained the same. Rev Dr Raphael G Warnock assumed the role of senior pastor in 2005, making him the fifth minister to lead the Ebenezer congregation in its 136-year history.
This year, he is giving a series of sermons focusing on family, which, he says, “come in all kinds of configurations”.
“Whatever your family, I know there is some assembly required,” he tells the congregation. “Real families don’t look like families look. Every family, including Jesus, has some crazy in their family. You don’t have to conform to the crazy.”
“Home is also where the hurt is. All of us have some brokenness. Every one of us has some bruises. We all need family. This church can be your family.”
Warnock, a Democratic politician, made history in 2021 by becoming the first black person elected to the US Senate from the state of Georgia.
It is 60 years since the march on Washington and King’s famed “I have a dream” speech. Despite that passage of time, the fight for racial equality remains as important as ever to those in this community.
Just as King had a dream, so too do the churchgoers. “One day,” says one man present, “I hope those dreams will be every bit the reality that our brother [Martin Luther King] pictured.”
