Pablo Picanté, Colm McNamara’s newly opened burrito shop on Baggot Street, Dublin 2, had gained a sizeable cult following on Facebook before its doors had even opened. Testament to McNamara’s past life as an ad man, the taquiria is fronted by the fictional brand ambassador “Pablo Picanté”, an ex-luchador (Mexican masked wrestler) hailing from Ensenada, who has been brought to life by hipster illustrator Chris Judge.

Brand manoeuvering aside, Picanté is authentic. From the Mexican/American tag-team cooks, who bob happily to the piped Chicano rap soundtrack as they roll out “phat flavasome” burritos, to the use of authentic ingredients and production methods, this joint is by no means an exercise in style over substance. Doubly good is the fact the eating also lives up to the marketing. We love, love, love the Beefy Barbacoa (€5.95) – shredded beef, refried beans, cilantro (coriander to those who have never been on a J-1) and lime rice, green salad and salsa, in a flour tortilla. With a choice of hot, medium or mild versions, this is a big handful of Mexican-inspired, Californian flavour that’s as good as anything we’ve tasted from the traditional taco trucks and taquirias from whence Pablo hails. See pablopicante.ie.