Eco has been a feature of Gorey’s main street for many years and continues to be a favourite with the Courtown crew during the summer. More importantly, it remains busy through the quiet winter months, especially with Arklow residents who are forced down the motorway for dining-out options.

The welcome is friendly, both on the phone and in-person, as staff greet regulars and blow-ins at a tight entrance as some of the former grab take-aways throughout the evening.

The menu is expansive, not always a good sign – a lot of everything but nothing done that well. It’s split between seafood, gourmet burgers, steaks, BBQ (chicken fillet and skewers), faijitas, eco asia, pasta and pizza. And that’s before specials, dessert, cocktails and wine.

Over the past few visits, we’ve tried to sample across the board but my sidekick stuck to a favourite Eco-style Thai spicy beef (€17.95) which is a generous portion of tender (she assures me, and she’s a fussy one) local fillet with greens and egg-fried rice. Simply presented and enjoyed on every visit. Before that, starters of nachos (€ 7.75), chicken wings (€7.50) and lightly battered tempura veg (€7.95) were good.

Steaks include a 10oz angus sirloin (€21.95), 8oz fillet (€25.95) and surf & turf (€27.95) and including a side order, as is usually the case outside the capital.

The fish specials tend to feature Kilmore Quay-caught white fish, fresh and nicely grilled or fried (a tempura option is €15). Friday night is sushi night.

As a vegetarian, the menu is reduced, as usual, but the veggie burger (€13.95) satisfies with tangy relishes and toppings. The fajitas (€15.95), however, feature a few too many jalapenos and rubbed spice, with little of the veg flavour surviving. Starter dishes as mains are a better option.

For desserts, the Eco Mess is a favourite (€4.95) – an Eton mess that benefits from a good balance of meringue, cream and winner Wexford strawberries. The Assiette Gourmande (€5.95) makes me think of a wedding, but instead gave three generous samples – a bit too much but fun to share.

Cocktails are on the menu, but at a tenner a pop for a cosmo that comes over ice (as does the margharita), I’d save your cash for tomorrow’s takeaway dessert.

Booth tables on the mezzanine overlooking the room have room for six (though we were seated there as a four), a good view of the action and of the TV over the bar that repeats old movies.

Unfussy and friendly dining that benefits from use of plenty of local fresh ingredients.